Providencia, Columbia to Panama (February 4 - February 26, 2006)

When we arrived in Providencia, our plan was to spend about a week there, rest and reprovision, and then proceed on to Panama. That last leg of our Caribbean journey was only about 250 miles or two good days of sailing. Our hope was to be in Panama by the middle of the February.

A week after we arrived we had a good window of moderate winds and seas but unfortunately the infection Kyle got on his leg on the trip from Honduras had not healed up completely so we decided to wait for the next window. A week later the weather appeared to be moderating again so on Friday we checked out of Columbia and prepared to leave on Saturday. Saturday morning, however, conditions were still a bit rough and Kyle was not comfortable leaving. So we decided to wait until Sunday. Sunday morning dawned clear with a 15 knot wind. Perfect. At first light we were up and preparing the boat for leaving when we heard a call on the radio from Tom on Nueva Vida. His wife Kathy was sick with the flu so they would not be leaving. Since we are traveling with them we figured to stay put too. By Tuesday the weather was supposed to deteriorate again so it looked like we were going to miss our window. Dejectedly we went back to immigration and checked back into the country paying a fee to check in again. Now, wait for yet another window.

Gale conditions were forecast for the area just east of our projected track to Panama through most of the week. That meant that our course would probably take us through higher than normal winds and seas. As we tracked the weather, though, the prediction was for some moderation over the weekend. By this time we were going on three weeks in Providencia and we were getting a little anxious about getting to Panama. We decided therefore to take this next window, even though the conditions would be marginal at best.

The extra time in Providencia was fun. Besides doing some repairs on the boat we explored the island, did some shopping, and caught up on computer work and email. We even got to attend church a couple of times. After three weeks of waiting, though, we had seen and done everything Providencia had to offer and were more than ready to leave.



Friday morning was another beautiful day. Winds in the anchorage were about 15 knots and everyone was excited to be under way again. We were a little apprehensive about the weather and sea condition though. Kyle downloaded the latest National Weather Service forecast for the area and it showed us just skirting an area of 20-25 knot winds and 8-12 foot seas. There is nothing fun about being out in those conditions, but then the forecast did not show any real moderation for a week or so. It was time to leave.

We raised our anchor and motored out of the harbor. Turning south, we raised the sails, turned off the motor, and were on our way finally to Panama. Since we were still in the lee of the island the seas were moderate and we were making over 6 knots in the 15-20 knot winds. It was a beautiful day for sailing - until we got beyond the lee of the island.

At that point we were exposed to the seas that were being kicked up by the gale 250 miles to our east. Quickly the waves built to 8-12 feet with a few even higher. It wasn't long before everyone on both boats was sea-sick and we were all beginning to think that this was not such a good idea. Still as uncomfortable as conditions were, they were not dangerous, and we were hoping that as we moved south we might see some moderation.

That first day was a fine and pleasant misery. Kathy remained in the cabin with her sea-sick bucket while Kyle stood watch with his. Waves were regularly throwing water into the cockpit so he wrapped up in a sail cover and let the wind vane steer the boat as the water washed over him, looking up occasionally to check for other boats.

Friday night was as miserable a night as we had experienced at sea. Neither of us slept that night, just waiting for dawn. Saturday morning found us exhausted but it was apparent that the wind was laying down and the seas were only in the 6-10 foot range. It looked like maybe this would be a nice day.

With the moderating conditions we were no longer taking water into the cockpit so it became more comfortable. Both of us were still sick but getting better and by the afternoon were able to eat and drink a little. Things were looking up.

The wind continued to decrease during the afternoon until by sunset it had dropped to less than 10 knots. For awhile it looked like we might even have to start up the engine - an unbelievable turn after the winds of just 24 hours earlier. In a few minutes, however, the wind filled in a bit and we were off again.

The guidebooks had said that shipping traffic would increase dramatically as we neared the entrance to the canal. So it was important that we keep a good watch that last night. Strangely, we only saw evidence of one ship the whole night - which was probably good because after nearly 36 hours with no sleep we were nodding off on watch fairly regularly. Finally after a beautifully uneventful night we saw the light begin to fill the sky in the east. The GPS showed just 18 miles to the entrance to Panama. Almost there.

As we got closer we began to see a large number of ships. At first we thought they were exiting the canal but it soon became clear that they were waiting at anchor to go in. About 10 miles out we radioed the canal control to let them know we were coming. With the amazing quantity of ship traffic, no one moves into or out of the port without notifying control. We got permission to come within two miles of the breakwater, at which point we were instructed to radio again for instructions. We threaded our way through the anchored ships, watching carefully for any sign of one of them getting under way. Finally, at two miles out Kyle radioed the port control. He had three large ships coming in and then two scheduled to come out of the narrow channel through the breakwater. Stap Isi and Nueva Vida were to get in line and follow the last ship in, then keep to the east side of the channel as we made our way south to the small boat anchorage. About that point two dolphins surfaced on our bow, the first ones we had seen the whole trip. That was a nice welcome to Panama.

The final three miles were wonderfully uneventful. We found a place to anchor and were soon safely on the hook. The first phase of our trip was the voyage down the rivers to the Gulf. This was the end of the second phase - and what a relief it was to finally be done with the Gulf and Carribean. Now it was just a matter of getting through the Canal and we would be off across the Pacific.

Usually Stap Isi has been the smallest boat in the anchorage. Here, though we found one even smaller - a small catameran that can't be much larger than 20 feet long. It is from Kazahkstan or some such place and the owner has brought it across the Atlantic and is waiting to get into the Pacific. Compared to his boat, Stap Isi is a luxury yacht.