Raiatea to American Samoa (July 2-14, 2006)

When it comes to weather forecasts, we are spoiled in the States. Complain as we might, each evening we get 24 and 48 hour forecasts that are generally spot on. Even out to 72 hours the forecasts are fairly good. It is only out beyond 72 hours that the forecasts get flaky. In the US meteorologists have a couple hundred years of historical data on which to base their models. Then those models are constantly updated with real-time data from hundreds of reporting stations.

One of the adjustments that we have had to make learning to deal with weather forecasts in the south Pacific is that they are much less reliable - even forecasts for tomorrow, or this afternoon. That unreliability is to be expected when one considers the lack of historical data and the paucity of reporting stations in this part of the world. Still it has taken us awhile to come to grips with the fact that the weather resources available to us in this part of the world are little better than wild guesses.

Each morning we download weather faxes from New Zealand and computerized GRIB files that give wind forecasts out several days. In addition we check in on a marine HF net daily to hear a weather forecast. Sunday morning was no exception. We were looking for a good window in which to start our passage west to Pago Pago in American Samoa and it looked like we had finally found it. The forecasts were unanimous in predicting 10-15 knot winds for Sunday and Monday in our area, followed by a couple of days of lighter winds. We figured on that basis that we could make 250-275 miles or almost 1/4 of the passage before the winds started laying down. Time to go.

So Sunday morning we cast off our dock lines and said good-bye to Raiatea. Motoring slowly over the north end of the island we picked our way through the reefs and tried to follow the channel towards the pass at the western side. The channel was well marked, it was a beautiful sunny day, and in about an hour we were through the pass. The wind, as predicted, was from the east at about 12 knots as we raised the sails and shut off the motor. Since we were in the lee of the island, the first few miles of sailing was a rare treat in that we had excellent wind but almost no waves. It was fun sailing along at 5 knots on a smooth sea. That soon changed as we got farther out. Still the first few hours were wonderful.

By about 2 PM, though, it was obvious that we were loosing our wind. The wind seldom just dies suddenly though occasionally that does happen. Usually one is sailing along nicely when the wind unexpectedly drops. Then in a few minutes it reappears but not quite as strong. Ten or fifteen minutes later it drops again and takes a bit longer to reappear. And so on. Over a period of an hour or so the wind can go from 15 knots to almost zero. That is exactly what happened on Sunday afternoon. By 3 PM we were drifting quietly with the sails flogging in absolute calm. How frustrating to have spent so much time trying to find a good weather window and then to loose the wind within sight of shore.

That frustration continued throughout those first two days. The wind would fill in just a bit, we would hoist the sails, and then two or three hours later it would vanish again and we would lower the sails and drift. It would not have been so bad had the forecasts not been for such favorable conditions for this time period. By the end of the second day at sea we had made just over 100 miles instead of the 250 or so that we had hoped for.

Finally the morning of the 4th the wind began to fill in. At 6 AM we were able to raise the jib and an hour later the main went up. By 9 AM we were back up to 5 knots in 12 knots of east wind. It felt absolutely wonderful to be moving again. For the next two days, the days in which the wind had been forecast to lay down, we had perfect sailing conditions of 10-12 knots of SSE winds. We went from a 35 mile day on the 3rd to 120 miles on the 4th and 126 on the 5th.

During this time we dragged a lure behind Stap Isi but did not get any strikes. Several times we saw flocks of sea bird feeding on the surface so obviously there was sea life around. Nothing was interested in our offering though.

On the 6th the wind began to lay down again. Through the day our speed dropped gradually from 5 to 4.5 to 4 knots. At the same time the winds began to back around so that by 6 PM we were making just 3.8 knots in ENE winds. It looked like we would soon be drifting again.

Shortly after midnight on the 7th we lost our wind once again. The sails came down and for most of the day we drifted in a complete calm. In a way drifting like that can be relaxing. The seas calm down nicely and the boat bobs quietly. It is a good time to nap, read, or take care of minor boat projects. Kathy is able to pull out all the stops and cook full meals.

Saturday was more of the same. Occasionally we would get a little wind for an hour or two and then it would die out. When Sunday dawned with us still drifting, we were beginning to wonder if we would ever make it to Samoa. We had made just 160 miles over the past three days - less than half of what we normally make.

The weather forecast on the net Sunday morning, though, got our attention. The weather fax charts showed a low developing directly over our position some time on Tuesday. If that happened it would mean a lot of squally rainy nasty weather. It was time to move. We decided to do something that we seldom do during a passage - run the engine. We only have about 300 miles of range with our fuel on board. On a long passage that would be enough to move us from one place with no wind to another. So we usually just drift and wait. But the idea of a low forming on top of us was an excellent motivator. We started the motor and headed west at about 4 knots.

Finally the wind began to fill in again about 3 PM. We stopped the motor and raised the sails and by 6 PM were sailing along at over 5 knots again. Life was good - except for a big ugly line of clouds to our south. They had been visible for some time and it looked like now they were getting closer. We figured that it was probably a stationary front that the weather charts had shown trailing north from a low pressure system well to the south. We kept sailing west and it was soon clear that we were going to have to punch through that front some time soon.

Kyle went below at 7 PM to get some sleep and Kathy took the early watch. At 9 PM we were getting very near the front so she picked a gap between two large storm clouds and aimed for it. She did a great job of navigating and made it through the first line of storms with no problems at all. We thought that maybe that would be the end of it. Little did we expect that it was just the beginning of three days of rain, squalls, wind, and generally miserable weather.

The early morning hours of the 10th saw us surrounded by squalls and rain. The moon was nearly full and even though we couldn't see it though the clouds it provided enough light for us to see the storms and prepare for their arrival. It was a tough night and neither of us got much sleep. By morning the rain had about ended though. The wind stayed up so we had a great day of sailing in 10-12 knots of wind. We hoped that we might be out of the bad weather but by sun down on the 10th it was obvious that we had another rough night ahead of us.

Kyle was sleeping below when Kathy called him to tell him that a very ugly squall was approaching. He scurried up, took one look at the line of approaching clouds, and went forward to put the third reef in the main. It looked like the clouds were a bit lighter to the north so he put the boat on a beam reach and ran parallel to the approaching storm. Kathy went below to get everything squared away below. Then the storm hit with a fury. Forty to fifty knot winds went roaring over Stap Isi. Kyle let go of the main sheet to relieve the force on the main sail and sheeted the jib out. Still we were healed over with the starboard rail in the water and the GPS showing us making over 7 knots. Fortunately the storm passed as quickly as it arrived and in just a few minutes we were under way again.

That turned out to be the worst squall of the passage. But for the next two days we continued to deal with rain and squalls. On the evening of the 11th it clouded over and rained all night. That kept us below keeping watch for other ships by occasionally poking our heads out and looking around. Fortunately there were not many ships in the area.

Finally the weather moderated and the rain and squalls ended. The forecast for the 13th was for 8-10 knots out of the east. At 6 AM we had 123 miles to go so it was obvious that we would make it to Pago Pago some time on Friday the 14th. We figured that with the forecast winds we would probably arrive some time mid morning. But again the forecasts left something to be desired.

The winds remained out of the south throughout the day and slowly built from 6-8 knots to 10-12 and on to 15-17. By midnight we had winds over 20 knots and Stap Isi was flying along at over 6 knots. At 7PM we saw the lights of Pago Pago. We were relieved to know that in a few hours this difficult passage would be over. With the higher than expected winds it was becoming obvious that we would be arriving before dawn and would have to wait a few hours before being able to enter the harbor.

At 4 AM we arrived at the entrance to Pago Pago harbor and had about three hours to kill before we could make our way in. Normally a boat would heave to in this situation. Heaving to is a technique whereby a boat is made to stop and drift slowly to leeward. Usually it entails sheeting the jib to windward, centering the main sail, and tying the tiller to leeward. This puts the bow about 45 degrees off the wind and seas and allows the boat to gently drift. Unfortunately we had never been able to get Stap Isi to heave to. It is such a good sailing boat that when we tried to heave to it would just sail along as before - just a bit more slowly. Before we left Raiatea, though, another sailing couple suggested we try taking down the jib altogether and try heaving to with just the main. It looked like our early arrival at Pago Pago would give us a chance to try it.

Kyle went forward to take down the jib. Then he centered the double reefed main and put the tiller over to leeward. Stap Isi stopped dead in the water, put its bow just off the wind, and drifted slowly down wind at less than a knot. Absolutely perfect. We were thrilled to finally solve this puzzle and with Stap Isi secured we napped and waited for morning.

But first we checked in with Pago Pago harbor control. A freighter had arrived outside the harbor and had raised harbor control on the marine VHF. As soon as they were done speaking we called control to let them know we would be arriving at about 8 AM at the check-in dock. They promised to let immigration and customs know.

At 6 AM it was getting light enough to start towards the harbor so Kyle started the engine and took down the main and headed for the sea buoy marking the entrance to the harbor. Pago Pago is probably the best natural harbor in the south Pacific. It is very easy to get into. Several buoys mark reefs and as long as one does not get on the wrong side of those buoys it is hard to get into too much trouble. By 8:30 we had located the check-in dock and had tied up in an empty slip.

No sooner had we gotten the lines tied when a car load of Samoan officials arrived at the dock. They had been notified of our arrival by port control. Kathy was horrified that all these officials were coming to the boat. She usually tries to get the boat all neat and tidy before the government representatives show up. Today, though, after a rough passage, the boat was a disaster with wet clothes and gear scattered everywhere. The officials did not seem to mind though. They crowded into the cockpit, and down below, and a couple remained on the dock. They each had paperwork to be completed and questions to be asked. Everyone was very helpful and professional. In just a few minutes the paperwork was finished, passports stamped, hands shaken, welcomes offered, and the officials trooped off back to their offices.

With that we collapsed in the boat for some well deserved sleep. The first couple of days in Pago Pago were spent just trying to recover from the passage. Once that was done we would work on cleaning up, purchasing provisions, making repairs, refueling, etc. Pago Pago is one of the best places for reprovisioning between Panama and Australia so we planned to make the best of it. Small busses, costing between $0.50 and $1, ran everywhere on the island so it was easy to get around. A Sam's Club clone and large supermarkets allowed us to stock up on items we won't see again for a long time.