Sailing on Stap Isi

December 30 – Grand Harbor Marina, MS

The past couple of days of motoring, we had uncovered a few small mechanical problems that needed attention. There is a small oil leak on the engine, the bilge pump is acting up, the kitchen faucet is leaking, and so on. By the time we compiled a complete list, we decided that this would be a good time to take a maintenance day. That way once we get moving tomorrow, we can proceed towards the Gulf while keeping the down days to a minimum.

This marina has internet access so in addition to the maintenance we are taking the opportunity to get our monthly update out and answer some emails. Tomorrow we will be leaving first thing to start our trip down the Tombigbee.

December 31 – Bay Springs Marina, TN

Construction began on the Tenn-Tom waterway in 1971 and was completed 15 years later in 1986. The 217 miles of the waterway link the Tennessee and Tombigbee Rivers, providing a water link between the mid-southern states and the Gulf. For pleasure boaters, this route is much preferred over the lower Mississippi. South of Cairo the Mississippi is hazardous and is almost devoid of marinas and service facilities for small boats. The Tenn-Tom on the other hand, has almost no current and is dotted with marinas and facilities. One can get all the way from the Tennessee River to the Gulf with only having to anchor out 2-3 times.

Early on New Years Eve, we pulled out of Grand Harbor Marina for our first foray onto the Tenn-Tom. It was a warm and sunny morning and we enjoyed the scenery along the way. The route started through a reservoir but after a few miles we entered what is known as the Divide Cut. This 24 mile section is actually a canal that joins the Tennessee and Tombigbee River valleys. High levies lined each side and other than some water birds and a pack of turkeys, there was not a lot to see.

Our plans were to spend the night at the Bay Springs Marina, just up river from the first of the 12 locks on the Tenn-Tom. We had expected to encounter a lot of barge traffic on the river but did not see a single other boat this entire first day. At 2 PM we pulled into the marina to discover that it was closed for New Years. That was not a problem since we did not need power, fuel, or water – just a place to tie up for the night. Finding an open spot, we docked Stap Isi and settled in.

January 1 – Smithville, TN

New Years. At midnight someone in the vicinity of the marina started discharging firearms. That was enough to wake us and let us know that we were into a new year. Then it was back to sleep for a few hours.

Today we would be encountering our first lock on the Tenn-Tom. This was the thing about which we were most apprehensive. In our previous experience with locks on the Mississippi and Tennessee Rivers it was not unusual to take an hour or more locking through. There were 4 locks in the first 20 miles after Bay Springs and we had visions of spending most of the day waiting at locks and making almost no distance. When we got to the first lock and had to wait an hour and a half for a barge, our fears seemed to be coming true. Let’s see, 1.5 hours times 4 locks means potentially 6 hours lost. That was not going to be a fun way to spend a day.

Having made it through the first lock, we motored down river the 5 miles to the second. To our surprise, the lock master was just opening the gates for us when we arrived. We scooted in, tied up, and in less than 20 minutes were on our way. That was to be the pattern for the next couple of days. The lock master of the first lock of the day would contact the next locks and let them know we were coming and about how long it would take for us to get there. When we arrived they were ready and waiting to open the gates. Generally in 20 minutes or less we were through. The piece that we were most apprehensive about ended up being the least painless.

Because of having to deal with all the locks, we had gotten a very early start. But because everything went so well, at 2:00 PM we had already arrived at the Smithville Marina, our destination for the day. It was a nice surprise to find that they had cable TV hookups. So we borrowed a cable, hooked up our little 9 inch TV and watched a few of the New Years Bowl games.

January 2 – Columbus, TN

We had showers in the night and the weather forecast was for more throughout the day. Rain was not going to be too much of a problem, though, especially when the temps were supposed to be in the 70s. We prefer to get a very early start each day so that there is plenty of time to deal with any unforeseen problems. So at 6:45 AM we started the engine, cast off, and headed a half mile down river to the first lock of the day. There were three locks on the schedule for today and the pattern of yesterday was repeated. After the first lock, the second and third were ready and waiting for us.

By noon the clouds had burned away and it was sunny and warm. For the past six weeks I had been promising Kathy that just a little further south it would be warm. It looked like she could finally stop accusing me of lying to her.

Again we had the river almost to ourselves. We passed one barge and perhaps two other pleasure boats the whole day. Mile after mile it was just us, the boat, and the buzzards.

We had gotten used to seeing gulls, eagles, hawks, and herons. Today however was the day of the buzzards. For some reason there were buzzards everywhere along the river. We passed one power line and there on the tower were about 30 of them watching us slowly move past. That was sort of unnerving – made us wonder if they knew something that we didn’t. Then later there were actually three of them circling the mast of the boat as we motored along. Now we may not be the most experienced of sailors, but we found their suggestion a bit insulting.

Soon however, we left the buzzards behind, thankfully unfed, and arrived at Columbus Marina. This marina had a car we could borrow so we got cleaned up and went in to Columbus for dinner. One thing we have discovered on this trip is that one is never far from a Wal Mart. A quick stop on our way to the restaurant and we were able to get enough groceries and supplies for the next several days.

January 3 – Marina Cove (Near Carrollton, AL)

When planning our route for the day, we take two things into consideration – the speed of the boat and the location of anchorages and marinas. Since we started down the Tenn-Tom, we have been making about 6.3 knots (7 mph) so conceivably Stap Isi could make almost 80 miles between dawn and dusk. But 80 miles would do us no good if it left us far from a safe place to spend the night.

The farther along the Tenn-Tom we have gone, the less abundant the anchorages and marinas have become. When we left Columbus this morning we had two options. Marina Cove was located one lock and 28 miles south. After that there was an anchorage 37 miles and one more lock farther downriver. Since 65 miles of river travel and two locks seemed a bit optimistic we elected to take a short day and aim for Marina Cove.

The bird life is getting a bit more varied as we move south. Besides the ubiquitous gulls and buzzards, we also saw our first egret and a couple flocks of what we think were pelicans. Ducks of every size and color abound along with geese. Yesterday we say something swimming in the water that appeared to be a very large rat or a small beaver. For some reason we have yet to see a deer or other large mammal.

Just another day in paradise. It was in the 70s today, with a light southerly breeze. We were just about the only people on the water. About 10 AM we passed a couple of guys in a fishing boat and a bit later a large cruiser passed us heading North. (North???? Obviously lost.) No barges passed us until after we had tied up for the day. At 12:30 PM Marina Cove came into view and in short order we were tied up and (I hate to say this because of our more Northerly readers) resting on deck in the sunshine. We did have the pleasure of entering Alabama today – three times. As the course of the river wound back and forth across the border we spend about 30 minutes alternately in Mississippi and Alabama.

Tomorrow we will get an early start and head for the anchorage 38 miles downriver. Then one more day of travel will bring us to Demopolis, Alabama. A major marina is located there and we plan to take a couple days to get ready for our last 200 mile push to the Gulf. If all goes well, about one more week will see us in Mobile.

January 4 – Stuck in the Mud, Somewhere on the Tenn-Tom

In yesterday’s entry we talked about trip scheduling on the Tenn-Tom and how it was necessary to plan well so that the end of each day found us at an anchorage or marina. When we left the Marina Cove this morning it was with the knowledge that there was one anchorage between Marina Cove and the next marina at Demopolis, 90 miles away. So we set out to make the 36 miles to that anchorage with the plan that we would do the final 54 miles to Demopolis on Wednesday.

After a short delay to let the fog burn off, we were on our way at 8 AM. There was a lock about 1/2 mile below the marina so we radioed ahead and by the time we got there the gates were open and we had the green light to go in. Another 30 minutes and we were through the lock and heading South.

It was a picture perfect day, much like the last several. We watched birds, checked out the homes along the river, and other than a couple of fishing boats had the river to ourselves. About noon we saw our first spanish moss hanging on some trees on a bluff. It is encouraging to find evidence that we are indeed making progress.

At about 1:45 PM we arrived at the anchorage, a small bay off the river with a public boat dock. The guide book said that it was 6 feet deep at the entrance and 10 feet in the middle of the bay. I had asked the owner of the last marina if those figures were correct. He assured us that we would have no problem getting in with Stap Isi’s 5 foot draft.

Still we took it nice and easy as we moved into the entrance to the bay. Kathy read the depth numbers off as I steered. The depth started at 12 feet at the entrance but quickly dropped to 5, then 4.5, 4.3, 4.2 ….. stuck. We had been going slowly enough that it was no problem to put it in reverse and back out again. We tried again on the down river side of the entrance. Same thing – stuck again. Back out and try the upriver side. Stuck again. It seemed that the depth was four feet or less, not six, across the entire entrance.

So now what to do? It was 2 PM and Demopolis was 54 miles away – 8 hours at our speed. The moon was not going to appear tonight until after midnight so night travel on the river was pretty much out. (It would have been pretty much out even with a moon.) Finally we decided that since we had planted the boat in the mud at the entrance three times and three times were able to back out easily, we might as well do it again and spend the night stuck in the mud.

So Kyle once again eased the boat into the entrance while Kathy read the depth numbers. At 4.5 feet we felt the bow nose down and saw that we were not moving. Just to make sure that all was set, we dropped the anchor. It barely hit the water and it was down.

There is almost no wind today so we don’t have to worry about being blown off our parking spot. Our only concern is that a passing barge might send enough wake our way to move us further into the bay and really get us stuck. There is nothing to do but wait until morning and see what happens.

January 5&6 – Demopolis, AL

During the night we had two barges go by but they did not raise much of a wake so the boat remained firmly stuck in the mud. At 6 AM we were up and waiting for enough light to try to ease the boat back out into the river. The wind had come up a bit towards morning and blown the stern of the boat over to one side a bit. That meant that we were not sitting nicely in the furrow we had dug yesterday.

Finally at 6:30 it was light enough to see if we could unstick ourselves. Kyle started the engine, put it in reverse and gave it half throttle. We sighted along the trees on the bank to see if the boat was moving. Nope. Kyle eased off the throttle and then gave it a bit more power. Still nothing. He put it in forward to try rocking the boat a bit like when a car is stuck in the snow. Still no movement. The boat was stuck fast in the mud. There are several ways of ungrounding a sailboat but none of them are as quick and painless as just backing out. And since we had a full day to get to Demopolis we really wanted to be under way as quickly as possible. Kyle gave some forward thrust and then put it in reverse again. This time he poured the coals to it. Finally Stap Isi began to move backwards. We were ungrounded and free to start motoring down the river again.

There is not much to tell about the trip down. It was much like the previous four days. After the clouds burned off the sun came out and by mid-afternoon it was in the mid 70s again. The only excitement for the day came when we met a barge coming up river at the same time we were trying to pass a barge going down river. That made for one too many boats in a narrow river. Everyone was able to communicate via marine radio so we all knew what everyone else was doing. That allowed us to ease by both barges without getting tangled up with either. Tangling with a barge is enough to take the shine off of one’s day.

At 2 PM we pulled into the marina at Demopolis. There is some rain and colder temps moving into the area in the next couple of days so it looks like we will stay here until Friday or Saturday. That will allow Kathy to get the laundry done and Kyle will work on some of the ever-present boat jobs. There are only four days left of traveling to get to Mobile so we are anxious to be moving as soon as possible.

January 7 – On the Tombigbee Waterway

Demopolis is a major stopping off point for boats heading for Mobile so there are always a few boats ready to make the last jump to the Gulf. Three were planning to leave today and we were going to at least start out together first thing in the morning. The departure became a scramble when the lock two miles down river told us at 6 AM that we had to be there in 20 minutes or he would have to lock through a barge first. In a matter of minutes we all had our engines started and were heading south at top speed. We all made it to the lock before the barge arrived. Soon we were through and on our way.

When we left Demopolis, we left the last actual marina on the Tenn-Tom until Mobile. So tonight we would be anchoring out on the river. The “anchorage” was actually just a wide spot in the river where we were able to pull out of the way of barges. In order to keep from swinging into the channel we had to set anchors from the bow and stern. About an hour after we had anchored, another couple we had met in Demopolis arrived in their sailboat and anchored behind us. It was nice to have some people around.

The big event for the day was that we passed the 1000 mile mark for this trip. That leaves only slightly less than 200 miles to go until Mobile.

January 8 – Bobbie’s Fish Camp, AL

Some storms blew through in the night but nothing too serious. About 50 miles north of us they had 60 mph winds and severe thunderstorms. We got a bit of rain and some wind but the anchors held nicely and we made it through the night without problems.

Today our goal is Bobbie’s Fish Camp. This is a catfish restaurant that has a fuel dock and a place to tie up for the night. Everyone we have talked to says that they serve some of the best catfish on the planet. Kathy is not much of a fish eater but even she is going to try it.

Mile after mile today was just trees and water and very little sign of humanity. We have tried to be good and enjoy the glories of nature all around us. Unfortunately at this time of year nature’s glory is more than a little muted. It is becoming a struggle to appreciate it. After a few hundred miles of naked trees, it all begins to look like standing firewood.

So we find ourselves looking intently, not at the birds and trees, but for signs of people. Kathy has taken to scanning the bank with our binoculars, looking for garbage. “Oh, look hon, a lawn chair,” she exclaimed at one point. And sure enough, there was a lawn chair that the last flood had deposited in a tree. When Kyle called Kathy up on deck to see an outhouse, he knew that it was time to come out of the woods. Just two more days and we will be in Mobile, surrounded by concrete and glass and lights and noise. Ahhh, civilization.

But for now it is time to refuel the boat and get up the hill for some catfish.

January 9 – Bates Lake, AL

Today was going to be a long day, starting with our last lock and dam on the Tombigbee. Two other boats tied up with us at Bobbie’s Fish Camp and over dinner we had decided to leave together before dawn. One of the two other boats, Morning Star, had radar so he would lead and Stap Isi and Aurora would follow.

At 5:30 AM Morning Star radioed ahead to the lock and was told that it was very foggy there but we could come on down. There was almost no fog at Bobbie’s so we all started our engines and proceeded towards the lock.

As soon as we got through the lock we ran into pea-soup fog. We could hear the barges heading up river discussing the conditions and it sounded like almost all of them had pulled over to the side of the river to wait until the fog cleared. It would have been impossible for us to have proceeded by ourselves but with Morning Star leading the way we were able to safely make our way down river. Finally by 9 AM or so the fog began to lift.

We were hoping to make almost 65 miles to a place on the river called Bates Lake. The guidebooks said that this was a nice anchorage and since it was only 54 miles from Mobile, we would potentially be able to make it all the way to Mobile the next day. Morning Star had gone on ahead once the fog cleared. As we approached Bates Lake, they radioed to us to give us directions on where the deeper water was and how to get into the anchorage. We got in with almost 2 feet of water to spare under the keel and were soon swinging lazily at anchor. If all went well this was going to be the last night on the river. We were excited at the prospect of finally bringing this part of the trip to a close.

January 10 – Mobile, AL

It was 54 miles to the end of the Tombigbee waterway but there was an additional 12 miles or so to the marina where we hoped to stay. That was going to be another long day so we planned to get an early start again. Unfortunately, we awoke again to thick fog in the morning. Today rather than charge out into the fog, all three boats waited for it to burn off. Kyle kept doing speed and distance calculations to try to figure out the latest that we could leave and still make it to Mobile. He figured that if we got underway by 10 AM we would arrive at the marina at twilight.

Finally at 9:30 AM the fog had lifted enough for us to leave and at 9:45 we were under way. There was a nice current at this point and for the first few hours we made almost 9 mph. At that speed we would make it to the marina with a few minutes to spare.

In the lower reaches of the Tombigbee, the land along the shore started to change from forests to marshes. We saw lots of cypress trees, pelicans, and other signs that we were approaching the ocean. The farther we went the wider the river became and we had to be careful to stay in the channel and avoid the shallows. At one point our hearts stopped as we felt Stap Isi brush the bottom, but our momentum carried us through and we became even a bit more careful. Then we heard Morning Star radio us from up ahead.

They had arrived at the railroad swing bridge just north of Mobile and found that it was broken and unable to swing. There was a railroad crew working on it but they were not sure how long it would be to fix it. When we finally came around the bend and saw the bridge, there were two boats above and one barge below waiting to get through. So we joined the queue and drifted in lazy circles while the maintenance people worked on the bridge.

After a 45 minute wait, the bridge started to swing open and we were on our way again. This had completely blown any chance we had of getting to the marina before dark, but in checking the charts we saw that there were lighted buoys all along the Mobile ship channel and from the channel in to Dog River where the marina was located. Each lighted buoy has a distinctive pattern of flashing lights. It is not difficult to navigate as long as you can see the next flashing buoy. So we decided to just go ahead and proceed to Mobile rather than anchoring out one more night.

Entering Mobile was awe inspiring. Just a few miles up the river we had been the only boat around. It was peaceful and quiet and we were surrounded by coastal marshes. Now we were surrounded by huge ocean-going freighters, barges, and smaller boats of every description. Stap Isi was just about the smallest boat on the water and we felt a bit intimidated by the surroundings. This was our re-introduction to civilization.

As we left Mobile and headed south into Mobile Bay, we could see the red and green flashing buoys marking the ship channel. Coming into a new harbor in the dark is not the best greatest idea in the world, but with the navigational aids we were confident of finding the marina. Plotting our course on the chart we followed the channel to where we should find the buoys marking the secondary channel into Dog River. And there they were. The chart showed flashing buoys all along this secondary channel and we soon saw the first green one about a mile ahead. All we had to do was keep to the right of that and when we got there we should see a red one a mile further on.

Except we didn’t. Arriving at the green flashing buoy we scanned ahead but couldn’t see a red one. Obviously it was not working. But we knew it was a mile ahead on a course of 305 degrees so with Kathy watching the compass I steered towards where we should find the buoy. After going a mile we got out our million candle power spotlight and looked around for the buoy. Nothing. The buoys all have reflective paint on them and if they were anywhere close we should have seen them.

So we turned around and proceeded back to the green flashing buoy. We set our 305 degree course again and started back to see if we could find the next buoys. Kyle told Kathy that since the Bay was only 7 feet deep here, if we missed them again, we would just pull off to one side, drop the anchor, and wait until morning to go in. But this time after going a mile, Kathy scanned the area with the spotlight and picked up the reflection of the red buoy. We were back in business again.

About this time, we heard Morning Star calling us on the marine radio. They were a bit concerned when we had not arrived and were trying to find out where we might be. They were very familiar with the channel into Dog River and helped us find our way the last mile or so in to the marina.

At 7 PM we finally arrived at Dog River Marina and tied up to the fuel dock there. We can’t tell you how great it felt to be done with the river portion of our trip. Since leaving Moline, Illinois on November 16th we had covered almost exactly 1200 miles. Due to weather and flooding, it had taken us almost twice as long to complete this leg as we had anticipated. Through it all, though, the Lord has blessed the trip and has given us grace to continue. Even in spite of the cold, rain, snow, etc. it was a good trip.

November 30 – Somewhere on the Ohio River

We woke to light fog and rain but there was no thought of remaining on the Mississippi any longer than we had to. So by 8 AM we had raised the anchor (which had held wonderfully through the night despite the abuse) and were off. In just a few minutes we were around the point and into the Ohio River.

Over the past few days we had been going with the current and were at times making as much as 11 mph. That came to an immediate halt as we started up the Ohio. Maximum speed was going to be between 3-4 mph for the next couple days at least.

The rain which had stopped for the night now resumed in earnest. Kyle had rigged a small tarp over the boom and that kept our heads dry. But it did restrict visability and that was going to be important on the lower Ohio. We were now in barge country. There were barges everywhere. We made our way up picking our route to stay as far away from the massive vessels as possible. Occasionally we would call them on the marine VHF to make sure that our route was not going to put us in their way. Usually they were helpful and I think they just appreciated knowing that we were there and awake.

We made 31 hard soggy miles on the last day of November and anchored off channel in a another place that had been recommended to us as a good anchorage. It was still in the current but the anchor set well and we were confident it would hold. After dinner we caught the TV weather forecast. With the passing of the front, the rain was finally going to end and the wind was going shift to the North-Northwest at 7-12 mph. Wind was our biggest fear on the river but 7-12 mph was nothing.

We got ready for bed and climbed in. Then the everything hit the fan. We heard the wind pick up and soon it was howling through the rigging on the boat. We estimate that it was blowing at least 30 mph, certainly not less than that. The waves started to build and by 10 PM we were taking a serious pounding. The wind was trying to blow the boat broadside to the choppy 3-4 foot waves and whenever it succeeded we were pitched violently sideways back and forth. Everything not nailed down was soon on the floor of the boat and we were standing in the middle of the cabin holding onto the handholds. Every few minutes Kyle would go on deck to check the anchor. Amazingly it was holding.

At 10:30 PM Kathy said that it sounded like something blew off the deck. Kyle went topside and was horrified to discover that we were careening down the river towards the shore. The wind had finally succeeded in blowing the boat completely around against a 3 knot current so that it came to rest sideways against the anchor rope. The rope was acting as a kite tail keeping the boat sideways to the current, the force of which on the keel was finally too much for our trusty anchor. It pulled free and there was no way it was going to reset at that speed.

Kyle called Kathy to get on deck and he went forward to try to get the anchor up. Because of the depth of the river we had put out all 200 feet of anchor rope. In the best of circumstances it takes several minutes to get all that pulled in. On a wildly pitching deck in the middle of the night there was no way Kyle was going to get the anchor in before we struck the shore. We had to get control of the boat within the next few minutes or lose it. So Kyle did the only thing possible. He untied the anchor rope and watched $400 of ground tackle disappear into the night.

The boat was now free but it was still headed for the shore. Thankfully the engine kicked right off, Kyle gave it full power and headed into the wind away from the shore. We had saved the boat, but we were still in a bind. There was no way our light secondary anchor would hold in these conditions; it was 11 PM, still raining, with a violent wind blowing and 3-4 ft seas. We had no radar so there was no possibility of navigating the channel to continue up river. And with the front that moved through the temperature was supposed to dip below freezing.

Kyle got into all his heavy weather gear and hunkered down at the tiller. We knew the river downstream and we knew it upstream to the point where we had originally anchored so Kyle plotted out a one mile course. Upstream against the current at about 1.5 knots and then turn and go downstream with the current at 4.5 knots. Each circuit took one hour. At each turn to go back upstream Kathy made a large cup of something hot to drink. Turn, hot drink, 12 AM; turn, hot drink, 1 AM. The temperature continued to plummet but at least with the passing of the front the rain had stopped. By 4 AM the wind started to moderate and the waves began to subside. By 5 AM Kathy was able to get some sleep. By 6 AM the longest night of our lives was coming to an end as the pink glow of dawn appeared in the east.

December 1 – Kentucky Dam Marina, KY

At 6:30 AM we hit the throttle and headed up the Ohio to try to finish the last 16 miles to the mouth of the Tennessee River. It was actually a beautiful day with not a cloud in the sky. The temperature started coming back up and by 10:30 we left the Ohio.

The Tennessee is a much smaller river but due to the rains it was still running fast. We were able to make about 5 mph against the current and by 3 PM were in sight of the lock and dam leading to Kentucky Lake. Just on the other side of that lock was a full service marina. We were looking forward to being tied to a nice firm dock and getting hot showers.

We had to wait for a barge to lock through but by 6 PM we had made it into Kentucky lake. After threading our way into the marina, we found an empty slip and tied up. We slept like dead people.

This is about the half way point of our trip to the Gulf. And we definitely have the hard part behind us. From now on we should make good progress south and we are looking forward to finding some warmer weather along the way. There is an abundance of marinas open from here to the Gulf so we should never have to go days at a time without finding a sheltered place if we need it.

The Lord has been our protector and shield the past couple of weeks. We are so thankful to Him for his provision of this fine boat and for sustaining us in what has been so far a tough trip.

December 2-4 – Kentucky Dam Marina, KY

It has been a nice break here at the marina. Thursday was basically a wash as we recovered from the past couple days on the Ohio, took showers, did some laundry, tidied up the boat, and rested. On Friday, Kyle’s uncle Larry and another friend came up from Murray, Kentucky for a visit. We went to lunch at Murray and spent some time at Larry’s house. Saturday was boat maintenance day. We finished setting up the mast and rigging, with the idea that we might get the sails up on Kentucky lake. Kyle was able to diagnose and fix a problem with the HF email system and Kathy made some headway getting things stowed away. It was a productive day and we are ready to start south again first thing tomorrow. We are so thankful that the Lord has provided these days to rest and work on the boat.

December 5 – Kentucky Dam Marina, KY

First light on Sunday found us up and preparing the boat to leave. We had 42 miles to go to get to the next marina. There was rain predicted for Sunday afternoon and we wanted to be firmly tied to a dock by the time the storm came through.

Before starting each day, Kyle checks all the fluid levels on the engine. This morning he checked the engine and discovered that the oil was a quart high. Now a quart low might be expected but a quart high is almost impossible – unless cooling water is getting into the oil. This engine is equipped with a pump that allows for easy oil changes. Kyle took a couple strokes on the pump and out came lake water.

About the only way for lake water to get into the oil is for it to back up through the exhaust manifold. He finally figured out that when we had come into the marina on Wednesday, the extensive time spent idling had allowed the cooling water to build up in the exhaust system. Then when he shut down the engine the water worked down into the exhaust and eventually collected in the oil pan.

After changing the oil and purging the cylinders of water we were ready to go – except that it was 10:30 and that did not give us enough time to get to the next marina. So we decided to spend another day there and leave bright and early on Monday. The day was spent on some other boat projects.

December 6 – On Kentucky Lake

Monday was predicted to be warm – our first day in the 60’s. We were looking forward to a day on the water with warm temperatures. Storms were predicted again for Monday evening but we would be at the next marina by then. We got up at 5:30 AM to get everything ready and discovered that because of the warm temperatures fog had descended on the lake and visibility was nearly zero.

So we got ready to go and waited. By 7:45 AM the fog had lifted enough for us to leave the marina. Finally we were on our way again. Since we were now in a lake, the current was only about 1.5 mph and we were making good time. By noon we were half way to the marina and we were already looking forward to hot showers.

Then at 1:00 PM the fog descended again. Suddenly we found ourselves in a thick pea soup with visibility of only about 1/4 mile. We were able to calculate a course from buoy to buoy and we knew from our speed about how long it would take to reach the next buoy at that course. This was fairly dangerous for two reasons. If we missed a buoy we could find ourselves completely lost on the lake. And there were barges out there slamming along at 10 knots. A quarter mile visibility does not give much reaction time. We needed to find a place to hold up.

Again the Lord was watching over us. A couple miles from where the fog descended there was a nice sheltered bay with buoys leading into it. This would be a great place to anchor if we could find it in the fog. Suddenly the buoy marking the entrance to the bay materialized ahead in the fog. And soon we could see the other buoys leading into the bay. Yeah! We soon had the boat off the lake and anchored in a peaceful bay, safe from the barges and the storm that is supposed to arrive later tonight.

Again and again we have seen the Lord’s hand at work protecting us and providing safe refuges when we needed them. He is indeed our shield and our protector.

December 7 – Paris Landing Marina, KY

During the night the wind came up as predicted and by dawn it was gusting to 30 mph. We were nice and comfy in the protected bay and decided to just sit it out. The next marina was only about 12 miles ahead and we could wait until 1 PM and still make it there with plenty of time.

By 10 AM the wind was dying down and we decided to raise the anchor and head up river. The wind was still raising 2-3 foot waves on the lake but that is no problem for this boat. No doubt it is going to see larger waves before this trip is over. It took us about three hours to get to the marina. By the time we got there it was getting fairly nice on the water.

We have noticed that the farther south we get the nicer the marinas are and surprisingly the cheaper they are. We only paid $19 for the night in this marina. That is much better than the $30 plus we were paying on the Mississippi.

After getting cleaned up we walked about a mile to an inn run by the state of Kentucky. They were having a chicken buffet so we pigged out and waddled back to the boat. The temperatures were in the 50s and it was a beautiful night. God is good.

December 8 – Pebble Isle Marina, TN

We were going to try to put in a 50 mile day and get to the Cuba Landing marina. The only way that was going to happen was if we got a very early start. So we got up at 5 AM and were under way at 6:30. We got to see a fabulous sunrise and even though the temps were in the 30s the forecast was for lower 60s by the end of the day.

It soon became obvious however that 50 miles was not going to happen. The farther south we went on Kentucky lake, the narrower it became and the more current we encountered. As we watched our speed drop from 5 knots to 4 and then to 3.5 we knew that we would have to find a closer marina. Pebble Isle marina was only 30 miles from where we started and even at our slower speed we would be able to make that comfortably.

At about 1:30 PM we pulled into Pebble Isle and tied up to their transient dock. We were thrilled to find that the hot showers were still working. After getting cleaned up we borrowed one of the managers cars and drove into town for groceries. One thing we have discovered is that no matter where you are, you are never far from a Wal Mart.

Well we didn’t make 50 miles today so maybe we could make 40 tomorrow. That would but us at another marina and would leave only about 75 miles to finish the Tennessee River and our last up river section. So we decided to get another 6:30 AM start and see if we could make 40 miles.

December 9 – Cuba Landing Marina, TN

It was overcast this morning so we had to wait until almost 7 AM before it was light enough to leave the dock. The river has been rising for the last few days and this morning it was higher and faster than we had yet experienced. As we left the bay where the marina was located and headed up river, our speed was only about 3 knots. There is no way that 3 knots translates into a 40 mile day and we soon decided to make for the next marina up river. Even though this was only 19.5 miles away it was going to take us over 6 hours to get there.

The river was absolutely full of floating logs, trees, and debris. During the day such items as a bird house, a teddy bear, a 50 gallon drum, and countless plastic containers drifted by. Our speed varied between 2.5 and 3.5 knots most of the day; dropping as low as 1.5 knots in a couple places. This is about the equivalent of a slow walk.

It misted and rained most of the morning but the temps were warm and we were fairly comfortable. With both of us on watch we were able to pick our way between the floating debris and enjoyed a nice day on the water. There were countless water birds and even in the winter the scenery was awesome.

At 1PM we arrived at the Cuba Landing Marina. There is no way that we would want to anchor out on a flooding river so these marinas are wonderful. Kyle was able to buy diesel fuel and oil and PTL! the showers were working.

It is obvious that we are going to have to spend several more days on the Tennessee. There are marinas about every 20-25 miles and with this current there is no way that we are going to get much farther than that in a day. The prediction is for the river to rise another 2-3 feet before it crests. That means more debris in the water and probably a faster current. Oh well, every day brings us a bit closer to the end of the Tennessee and the start of the Tombigbee waterway. When we get on the Tombigbee, we will be going with the current again and should be able to make some good time once more.

December 10 – Perryville Marina, TN

We again got an early start and again saw our speed drop even more as the river got narrower and the current got stronger. We have been wondering to ourselves when this push up a flooded river becomes unsafe and if we should lay up until the flood passes. The last stretch of river before the lock and dam is 35 miles without a marina. There is no way that we can make 35 miles in one day against this current so the only way to make that last hop would be to anchor overnight in a flood swollen river. No matter how that is phrased it just does not come out sounding smart.

It was partly cloudy today and even at the slow speed we were able to enjoy the scenery and the bird life that abounds on the river. It was especially fun to see the bald eagles perched in the bare trees along the river.

One thing that was nice is that we had seen no barge traffic on the river the past couple of days. Dodging barges in a flood is even less fun than it sounds. When we tied up at the Perryville Marina, after a whopping 19.5 miles in a whole day, we discovered that the reason for no barges is that the Coast Guard had closed the river to barge traffic. That pushed us to make a decision that we had been trying to avoid the past couple of days. If the river was too dangerous for the pros, what were we doing out here. We needed to get off the river until the flood receded.

So we paid for five days at the Perryville marina and settled in to wait. This down time did give us a chance to order a new anchor to replace the one we lost on the Ohio. And there is plenty to keep us occupied for the next few days. We are just praying that it is only a few days.

December 11 – Perryville, TN

Since we are not going anywhere for a while, we got to sleep in today. Then we started in on boat projects. Kyle was still having trouble getting the HF email system to work reliably so he got started on diagnosing the problem with that. Kathy used the time to do a deep clean on the boat and try to get things a bit better organized. Later today we will take a walk and try to find a church we can attend tomorrow. Other than that it is just a typical down day spent on projects.

The river is still rising, the barges are sitting still, and the Corps of Engineers is predicting the water levels in the Tennessee to continue rising for the next few days. Right now we are hoping to be moving again by this time next week. But it all depends on the rain.

December 12 – Perryville, TN

It is a beautiful day on the Tennessee River. The temps are in the 50s with sunshine and light winds. We could not find a church close enough to walk to this morning so we stayed at the boat and just enjoyed the day. The waters have gone up about a foot since yesterday but there is some indication that maybe the flood will crest in the next day or so. Even if it were to crest today, however, it would take several days with no rain for the water levels to drop enough for us to proceed. So for now we will stay put and work on some of our outstanding projects.

December 13 – Perryville, TN

A cold front moved through in the night and we woke to a windy, clear, and cold morning. The river only went up a few inches in the night and it looks like it will finally crest today. Kathy got the laundry done this morning and Kyle worked on the HF email system. This is going to be our main communications link so it is important that it work well. So far, though, Kyle has not been able to get it to work reliably.

The weather people are predicting low 20s and high teens for the next few nights so we are thankful for a place to tie up where we can run our space heater. By the end of the week we are hoping to be able to start on our journey again. But this is all in the Lord’s hands and we are comfortable just waiting on His timing.

December 14 – Perryville, TN

It’s COLD down here in Tennessee. The temperature was only 17 degrees this morning so we are thankful for the little space heater that our son Tim had bought for us last year. It keeps the boat nice and toasty and keeps the water lines from freezing up.

We had ordered a replacement for the anchor and rope that was lost on the Ohio River a couple weeks ago and that arrived today. So we are back to our full complement of ground tackle. That means that we are ready to go as soon as the water comes down some more.

The river has dropped a couple of feet in the last two days and the predictions are that it will continue to drop. A barge went by this morning so apparently the river is open to navigation again. We need to wait, though, until the current comes down to the point that we can make some progress upstream. If all goes well, we hope to be able to move again this next weekend. No rain is predicted for the next seven days and if that happens the bottom should drop out of this flood.

December 15 – Perryville, TN

A couple from Canada pulled into the marina today and docked behind us. They are on their way to Mobile and then to Florida. It was fun to have another couple here with us. One thing that we have discovered about boating is that there is a tight-knit community of very nice people out there. We have enjoyed getting to meet the other boaters and we have yet to meet anyone who was not friendly and helpful. Some have been very interested in our work in PNG and we feel like we have been able to use that as a means to share about the Lord.

December 16 – Perryville, TN

Some friends we met at the marina here have a car and were going into Lexington (Tennessee, not Kentucky). This is a fairly large town with a Wal-Mart so we decided to go with them and get our groceries for the week. By the time we made the rounds of the Wal-Mart, Post Office, and hardware store, the day was about done. The river levels seem to be coming down a bit more each day although the current is still fairly strong.

December 17 – Perryville, TN

Well it is a week from Christmas so we figured it was time to get our Christmas cards addressed and out. That was the project for this morning. Not much else going on here other than watching the water recede. Even though the weather is fairly nice, until the current slows, we will sit tight here. We are hoping that maybe this weekend we will be able to leave.

December 18 – Perryville, TN

In the past two days, the river has dropped about four feet. Projections are that by this time next week the river levels should be about normal. We were originally thinking that we would try to leave tomorrow but the forcast is for a major cold front to move through tonight with high winds and single digit temps for tomorrow. So we decided to wait until Monday to leave.

But today was dedicated to getting everything ready. Kathy did laundry and Kyle checked over all the boat systems to make sure that all was ready to go. We met some folks at the marina here who invited us to go to church with them tomorrow. It will be nice to be able to worship with other Christians again.

December 19 – Perryville, TN

The cold and biting winds make us glad that we are not on the river today. Most of the day we just sat in the cabin and read, worked on correspondence, and watched the weather forcasts. Tomorrow is supposed to only be in the 30s but Tuesday is projected to be in the 50s or 60s. Unfortunately right after that another major winter storm is expected. We are trying to evaluate whether to move on or wait out this next storm.

December 20 – Perryville, TN

Still cold today and the forecast for the rest of the week is ugly. By Wednesday we are supposed to have ice and snow and Thursday through Saturday the temps are only supposed to get into the 20s or low 30s. Tomorrow (Tuesday) is the only good day of the week.

Finally we decided that it made no sense to just shift to the next marina if we were going to be stuck till after Christmas anyway. And once we decided to stay put for the week, we got to thinking about the possibility of going back to Moline for Christmas. Kyle contacted his uncle who lives just an hour north of Perryville and found out that he was planning to leave on Tuesday for Chicago. He would be glad to give us a ride that far and Melissa our daughter could drive up to Chicago and pick us up.

So we hurriedly packed up and Kyle’s uncle came down to pick us up. It seems weird that after all this work to get this far, tomorrow afternoon we will be back where we started. But we are thankful for the opportunity to spend another Christmas with the family. As missionaries, every holiday with the family is precious because it can be many years between such opportunities.

December 21-25 – Moline IL

Well we are back in Moline safe and sound. And from the weather reports for Tennessee we made a good decision not trying to push forward this week. The forecasts for next week are for highs in the 50s and lows in the 30s all week – perfect boating weather. We will return to Perryville on Sunday and hopefully we can finally get off the Tennessee and on towards the Gulf.

But for now we are just thankful to be here. God is so Good. Thank you all for your prayers and encouragement over the past weeks. And we hope that you have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

December 26 – Perryville, TN

We left Chicago at 6AM with Kyle’s uncle for the return trip to Perryville. There had been a lot of snow in Southern Illinois, Kentucky, and Tennessee during Christmas week but the roads were clear until the last 75 miles or so.

It was a good trip down and we were happy to be back at the boat. But we were mainly thankful that the Lord had allowed us one more Christmas with the family. Even though it was not in our plans, we were blessed that it was in His.

December 27 – Perryville, TN

It was still cold in Tennessee and we had quite a few things to do to get the boat ready to go. So we decided to take one more day in Perryville. Kyle checked all the systems out and got all the equipment squared away. After two weeks of living in a marina, we had let the boat get a bit disorganized so Kathy got everything packed back away neatly. By the end of the day the boat was ready to go. Some friends we had met at the marina invited us for dinner so we had an enjoyable evening with them. They will be leaving for Mobile in a week or so and we decided to meet at one of the marinas there.

December 28 – Below Saltillo, TN

At 6:45, with mist rising off the river and a beautiful sunrise painting the eastern sky, we started the engine, pulled out of the marina, and headed up river. When we had arrived in Perryville over two weeks ago, the boat had only been able to make about 2-3 mph against the fierce current. The current had definitely dropped, but by how much? It would be wonderful if we could make the last 80 miles in two hops, but that would require that the boat be able to average about 4 mph. As we swung into the current and headed up river the GPS began registering our speed. Amazed we watched it tick up past 4 mph to a bit over 5. If we could maintain this speed we would finally be off the Tennessee tomorrow.

The day was clear but cold. Temps when we started were in the mid 20s but 50s were predicted by the afternoon. Just to be moving again felt great. We took turns at the helm and Kathy kept the binoculars busy checking out the very nice homes that lined the river. Occasionally we would see an eagle, heron, or hawk.

By 2 PM we had already made 35 miles and were getting ready to anchor behind an island just below Saltillo, Tennessee. Just then a skiff pulled up behind us with two men in it. One of them, who introduced himself as “Blue Rag,” said that he was living on a boat in the Saltillo marina. We had thought about tying up for the night in the marina but had not been able to contact the marina staff to confirm the channel depth. Mr. Rag said that yesterday it had been 9 ft deep. Fantastic. Our boat only has a 5 foot draft so we quickly decided to head upriver another mile to the marina.

When we got there we found a very narrow channel that for some reason just did not look like it could be 9 feet deep. Kyle got the depth finder going and slowly edged towards the mouth of the channel while Kathy called out the numbers. 10 feet, 9 feet, 8 feet, 6.5 feet, 6 feet! At that Kyle said a quick prayer, swung the tiller hard to starboard, and no doubt with angels helping to push was somehow able to get turned around and back out of the narrow – and shallow – channel.

That was enough fun for the day so we went back a mile down river to the islands and anchored out for the evening. It was clear and there were a million stars in the sky. Somewhere down river an owl hooted. We had dinner and got ready for bed, happy to be back on the water again.

December 29 – Grand Harbor Marina, MS

If everything went well, this was going to be our last day on the Tennessee River. We had to make 35 miles by 3 PM in order to have enough time to get through the Pickwick Lock and Dam and on to one of the marinas beyond. The temperatures had remained steady through the night. It was in the 40s at 5 AM when we woke up. It had been clear the night before and since there was a nearly full moon we had considered leaving before dawn to give ourselves plenty of time for this last leg. But when we slid the hatch back and looked out it was over cast and the moon was nowhere to be seen. It was definitely too dark to safely navigate the river.

Finally at 6:30 AM we hoisted the anchor and were on our way. Even though it was warm out, the wind had picked up and with the over cast sky it was still fairly chilly on the water. But it was just great to be moving and as the morning progressed it got more and more comfortable.

The closer one gets to Pickwick dam, the narrower and shallower the Tennessee River becomes. This should have meant that the current would pick up as we moved up river and our speed would drop. But throughout the day we were able to maintain almost 5 mph. It was only in the last 5 miles or so that our speed dropped below 4 mph. Amazingly we arrived at the dam before 2 PM. There were no boats or barges waiting so the lock master run us right through. At 2:30 we emerged from the lock onto Pickwick Lake just as the sun came out for the first time. Under a beautiful blue sky and 60 degree temps, we motored up the lake. Both of us felt like maybe we had turned a corner and the worst of the trip to the Gulf was behind us.

At 4 PM, four weeks after we started up the Tennessee, we turned onto the Tombigbee waterway. There is a beautiful marina, the Grand Harbor Marina, just a short distance down the Tombigbee and we decided to dock there for the night.

November 16 – Above New Boston, IL

We spent the night of November 15th waking up and writing down forgotten items on an increasingly lengthy list. By the morning of the 16th it was obvious that we needed to make one more trip to the hardware store. So with the run to two different hardware stores, it was after 8 before we were ready to shove off.

This was in many ways the hardest part of the trip. It would be a year or more before we would see our kids or family again. With a lot of tears and a last prayer together we waved goodbye, put the boat in gear and pulled away from the dock.

It was a beautiful morning, cool and clear with only a hint of wind. We made good progress down river to the first test – getting through our first lock and dam. There were no barges waiting so the lockmaster told us to pull right in. It went a lot easier than we had envisioned and in a few minutes we were on our way. A couple of friends had come to the locks to take some pictures and say goodbye. It was nice to see familiar faces.

The rest of the day passed uneventfully. After 47 miles and one more lock, we pulled out of the channel and dropped the anchor. The anchor set and the boat swung lazily with the current. We looked forward to a good nights sleep and an early start the next morning.

November 17 – Burlington, IA

An early start was not to be. We woke to warm temperatures (good) and dense fog (bad). Not wanting to come out on the short end of an encounter with a barge, we waited. Finally at 10:15 the fog had cleared enough to see our way south. We raised anchor and started off.

The weather was great, fog notwithstanding, and the sunshine and warm temperatures made for a pleasant day. After a mere 35 miles we arrived at Burlington, IA and since it was already 3:30 we decided to tie up at a dock owned by a river-side restaurant. We didn’t know it at the time but this was to be a great decision.

After getting the boat squared away, we got cleaned up and put on our go-out-to-dinner clothes and went out for a meal. After just two days on the water it seemed like everything was in motion. Getting used to being on land is as weird as getting used to being on a boat.

With dinner complete we retired to the boat for a good nights sleep and another early start.

November 18 – Burlington, IA

Well, so much for an early start. Or any start for that matter. We were completely socked in by fog and it looked like it would be hours before we would be able to start. So we spent the day working on various boat projects. Our first couple days out revealed several items needing repair or attention. So we worked on our things to do list while waiting for the fog to clear.

Late that morning, while still fogged in, a father and son came down to the dock and shouted a greeting in Melanesian Pidgin, the trade language of Papua New Guinea. They had seen the name of the boat (Stap Isi is Melanesian Pidgin for “relax, take it easy,”) and had come down to see why this Illinois boat would have a Pidgin name. It turns out that they are furloughing missionaries from PNG just like us. They had had a speaking engagement the night before in Burlington and were taking a walk along the river before heading off to their next engagement.

What a blessing it was to visit with fellow PNGers. God is so good to arrange little surprises and blessings like that. After a a nice chat they were off and we returned to our boat work.

Long story short, we got a lot done while waiting for a break in the fog that never came. So that afternoon we dug out our dinner clothes, and went back to the restaurant for a burger, praying that maybe the next day we would be able to start again.

November 19 – Above La Grange, MO

No fog! So at 7AM we were off from Burlington for what would be a 65 mile day. After some early morning rain, the weather cleared a bit and it got more comfortable. We are finding that we can deal with the cold as long as the sun shines a bit. It is the combination of cold, fog, drizzle, rain, and clouds that makes the trip miserable.

Mid morning Kyle checked the engine compartment and found water leaking in. He traced the leak to a check valve that he had installed in an antisiphon line. Not having another valve, Kyle cut the end off Kathy’s broom stick and used that to seal off the end of the line.

That was the only excitement of the day and at 4:15 we dropped anchor for another night on the river.

November 20 – Rockport, IL

An early start added to the length of a truly miserable day. It was cold, biting, and overcast and in short order we were chilled to the bone. To make matters worse, we had long waits at both locks we reached. Drifting in circles while waiting almost two hours for a barge to lock through wouldn’t be fun under the best of circumstances. Add a cold drizzle and you have a true recipe for misery.

We thought it was humorous that the barges and locks referred to us as the southbound pleasure craft. The only pleasure craft we could see were those barges with the nice dry, heated cabins.

The guidebook of Mississippi river facilities listed a marina at Rockport IL that was open year round. They said that they had showers, a hot tub, and restaurant. The idea of tying up to a nice dock and hooking our space heater to the shore power, then having a hot shower and meal kept us pushing on. We tried calling the marina on the cell phone but could not get an answer. That should have been our first hint that maybe things were not as advertised.

Arriving at the marina we tied off to the transient dock and went to the office. Everything was locked up tight. So much for the hot shower. But the electrical outlets were still live so at least we were able to run the space heater. A warm night’s sleep did wonders for our spirits.

November 21 – Dardenne Slough, MO

This was the best day yet. The sun shone most of the day, we got through both sets of locks with almost no wait, and by 3:30 we had made 62 miles. By that time we were at the South end of Dardenne Slough. This was the home of several marinas which were supposed to be open year round. We called them on the cell phone and when we couldn’t get an answer decided to anchor out.

So we found a nice spot out of the channel, dropped the anchor, and got things squared away. Kathy made a great meal of chicken and rice and we relaxed for the evening. For awhile.

About 9 PM, Kathy went out to check on the anchor and found that we were now pointed the wrong way. A wind had come up and spun the boat on the anchor. The anchor rope had fouled on the keel and we were now sitting sideways to the current. I could only envision that the extra force of the current pushing on the sideways boat would dislodge the anchor and we would go careening down the river in the middle of the night.

Do I need to mention that neither of us slept well that night? We took turns throughout the night poking our heads out and checking to see if we were still stationary. By about 3 AM the wind had stopped and somehow the boat had come untangled from the anchor rope. So we got a few hours of comfortable sleep before it was time to get going again.

November 22 – Alton, IL

The first thing that we do each morning is listen to the NOAA weather forecast on the marine radio. This morning they were broadcasting a weather warning due to an approaching winter storm. Today is Monday and on Wednesday a storm is supposed to come through this area producing rain, snow, and high winds (gusts to 40 mph). The rain and snow we can deal with but the high winds are another matter. We needed to find a sheltered place to wait out the storm

At Alton Illinois there was another marina that was advertised as being open all year. And amazingly enough it was. Even though it was only 22 miles from our last anchorage, we thought we would spend the night there and wait to see how the weather developed.

So here we are. Kathy was able to do some laundry, while Kyle replenished the supplies of fresh water and diesel fuel. The weather people are still calling for a significant storm in a couple days so we are trying to decide whether to push on our wait here in the sheltered marina until Thursday. There is another marina down river 45 miles but it is not sheltered and it is oriented broadside to the predicted winds. The idea of being slammed broadside into the dock by high winds and waves is not overly attractive.

November 23 – Alton, IL

Since there was really no attractive option down river for sitting out the storm, we decided to stay put at the Alton marina until the storm passed. It seems like there are always a few things on the boat needing attention so we devoted the day to checking some things off the list.

The big project was getting the HF radio functioning so that we can do email and download government weather faxes. It took several hours but by the end of the day the ham radio was operational. Kyle tuned around the dial and found a ham operator in New Orleans calling out for a contact. Since we were headed in that direction Kyle decided to give him a call. They had a nice chat and at the end the other operator gave us some advice – when we get to Mobile Alabama, jump ship.

The weather people are still predicting a major storm for tomorrow so we are feeling much better about our decision to stay in Alton. So far it has been a beautiful day but the barometer is starting to plummet and it looks like things will change soon.

November 24 – Alton, IL

We awoke in the wee hours of Wednesday morning to the sound of something clattering across the deck. The wind had come up and apparently we had missed lashing something down up there. Kyle opened the hatch and found the radar reflector perched precariously on the side, waiting for the next big gust to carry it over board. He grabbed it and went below to listen to the wind and rain. As much as we had hated to lose two days of travel, now that the storm had arrived we were thrilled not to be out on the river. Throughout the rest of the night the winds increased so that by morning even though the boat was tied to the dock in a sheltered anchorage it was rocking and lurching and healing.

Snow! When we poked our heads out this morning we found the boat covered in a layer of wet snow. Personally I think that there is something terribly unnatural about snow on a sailboat. Sailboats are for warm summer breezes and white sand beaches. Welcome to Mississippi crusing in November.

At first light we went out and added a couple more dock lines to secure the boat to the dock. Then after making sure again that everything was lashed down well we went below for breakfast and to tackle some more projects. The main project for the day was to rewire the mast lights. We have an anchor light, a tricolor light and a steaming light on the mast. All of these are used in different situations and are required by the Coast Guard. We had been able to get the anchor light going before we left but were waiting for a down day to get the others wired. We definitely were not going anywhere so this was the day.

After a couple of hours of fishing wires through the bilge and connecting everything up we had all the lights working. Another major project completed. This afternoon we are working on correspondence and hopefully going to the grocery store for some provisions. Tomorrow morning, Thanksgiving, we are hoping to be on our way once again. The weather people are predicting several days of good weather and we are looking forward to making some good progress towards the gulf.

November 25 – Kimmswick, MO

It was a brisk and clear morning as we readied Stap Isi to resume the trip down river. The temperature had fallen to 27F in the night and the wet snow that had fallen the day before was now a coat of ice over every surface of the boat. We had to move carefully to avoid slipping and falling on the icy deck.

Kyle called ahead on the marine radio to check the status of Lock 26, just a mile down river. They said that they would be ready to lock us through in about half an hour so at 8AM we cast off the dock lines and started our way south again. It was good to be moving again after almost three days of waiting for the storm to pass.

All went well until we got into the lock and reduced speed. Suddenly an engine alarm sounded and the low oil pressure light went on. Increasing the engine rpm’s caused the alarm to stop but every time we reduced the engine speed, the low oil pressure alarm sounded. The lock doors were closing behind us and this was not a good time to be doing engine analysis. So we waited until we were through the lock and shut the engine down to check the oil status.

We check the fluid levels each day so unless something catastrophic had happened in the few minutes we were under way, we expected to find the oil at the prescribed level. It was. So why was the low pressure indicator going off? Kyle called Kathy’s brother on the cell phone to get some advice. Bill is a good mechanic and was able to offer some suggestions. Since it seemed like the oil pressure was staying high enough at the normal operating rpm’s we motored on as usual. There was another marina about 40 miles down the river and that would give us a good place to work on the problem.

Shortly after leaving Alton, we arrived at St. Louis. This was a double treat. Not only did we have a spectacular view of the arch, but it was there that we passed through our last lock on the Mississippi. Shortly thereafter we passed the mouth of the Missouri River. With the additional water from the Missouri, the river took on an entirely new feel. The current increased and there was a much greater amount of barge traffic. Freed from the necessity to fit through the locks, some of the barges were immense.

Finally at about 1:30 PM we arrived at the marina and tied up. Kyle immediately started to work on the motor and after changing the oil and filter, he discovered a loose connection on the wires feeding the control panel. Tightening that connection seemed to solve the problem with the oil alarm.

It is Thanksgiving and we were happy to find that a restaurant a short distance up river from the marina was offering Thanksgiving dinner. So we took boat baths and walked up to the restaurant. After the cold and stress of the day, it was nice to sit in a warm place and enjoy turkey and all the trimmings. It is awesome to experience the big and little blessings that the Lord has been sending our way throughout this trip.

November 26 – Mouth of Kaskaskia River, IL

Our location right on the river provided plenty of rocking and rolling as the barges went by in the night. But we got a good night’s sleep nevertheless and were ready to go early. Since we had used the last of our oil yesterday, we needed to get some additional quarts to have on hand. So first thing Kyle borrowed the marina car and drove in to town to the auto parts store.

As soon as he returned we shoved off and headed down river. With the rains upriver earlier in the week, the river was running high and there was a lot of debris floating along. Actually with the strong current and the floating limbs and trees, it was a lot like navigating the Ramu river in PNG. With the strong current we made great progress, at times hitting 10 mph. That may not sound like much but it is ripping for a boat like this.

At 1:00 PM we arrived at the mouth of the Kaskasia River. There was a lock just up the Kaskasia and we had been told that the lockmaster allowed small craft to tie up to the outer wall of the lock. That sounded like a lot better option than trying to find a sheltered anchorage on the Mississippi. So we pulled into the Kaskasia and called the lockmaster on the marine radio. He gave us docking instructions and in short order we were tied to the lock wall.

It was still early so we watched the Arkansas-LSU game on the one channel we could receive. Kathy made another great dinner and we settled in for the evening. It is supposed to be raining almost all day tomorrow. So we will take a look at the conditions in the morning before deciding whether or not to move. Rain is OK as long as it is not accompanied by high winds.

November 27 – Mouth of Kaskaskia River, IL

Early in the night the wind came up and the rain started. Twice we had to get up, get dressed and move logs away that the wind had blown up against the boat. We also added another couple of dock lines to make sure that we were securely fastened to the wall.

By dawn the wind had not stopped and it was obvious that we were going to lose another day of travel. There was no power to run the space heater so we huddled under sleeping bags and watched videos. Kyle was able to finally get the HF email up and running so the day was not a total loss. Still it was discouraging to have only made a little over 100 miles of progress in six days due to days lost to weather.

The cold is wearing on us daily. We keep thinking that just a few more days south and we will start seeing some warming but it seems like every day is the same. We will try to make the mouth of the Ohio River on Monday then about two more days should see us into the Tennessee River. From there it is a straight shot to the gulf. We are praying that Lord would give us a week or so of uninterrupted travel and that He would help us deal with the cold.

November 28 – Cape Girardeau, MO

When we woke on Sunday morning it was clear and calm. At 7:00 AM we pulled away from the Kaskasia lock wall for what would be our best day yet. The sun shone off and on most of the day, the temps were in the 40s and it was a fine day on the river. By the end of the day we had covered 68 miles and were just south of Cape Girardeau, Missouri. There we anchored off the river in a small diversion channel. There was no current and almost no wind so the boat just drifted around lazily all night while we got a good night’s sleep. We did not realize at the time that this would be just about the last sleep we would get for the next 60 hours.

November 29 – Cairo, IL

Another weather front was moving in and on Monday morning we woke to light rain. This was going to be our last day on the Mississippi and we hoped to anchor for the night just above the mouth of the Ohio River. The rain continued through the day. Even with good rain gear everything slowly became damp. Because of the cold temperatures, there was a lot of condensation in the boat and everything not in plastic was wet.

We feel like we are devolving into troglodites. Get up, put on the same damp clothes, too cold to bathe, take turns at the helm, drinking coffee or cocoa for warmth. Slug down some dinner and collapse into bed. Get up – repeat. I can’t remember feeling really warm.

At 1 PM we arrived at Cairo Illinois and anchored just below the tip of an island on the Mississippi. The owner of the last marina we had stopped at had suggested that this was a good place for an anchorage and for the first few hours we agreed. Because of the high water there were a lot of logs and debris drifting down the river and we could see some fairly large stuff floating by on either side of us. But it appeared that being behind the island was protecting us from the logs.

Kathy made dinner and by 7 we were in bed. After just a couple of hours we were jolted from bed by the sound of something slamming into the boat and scraping down the side. Kyle got dressed quickly and went out to check things out. We were surrounded by large dark shapes of logs and even full trees floating by. Our biggest concern was that one of the larger trees would hit us full on and dislodge the anchor.

Going below, Kyle climbed back into bed. Moments later we were hit again. Slam, scape, slam, scrape. Had this happened while it was light we could have looked for a different anchorage. But in the dark there was no way we could move. We still don’t know why after several hours of being out of the debris we were suddenly directly in the path. But all night we had to go topside to check for damage. At one point a 40 foot tree snagged on our anchor line and slammed into the side of the boat. It remainded there pounding on the side until Kyle was able to dislodge it by poking at it with Kathy’s broom. Within minutes another log was hung on the rope. Again Kyle was able to dislodge it with the broom.

The only thing that we were thankful for was that at least it wasn’t raining. The forecasters had predicted rain all night but thankfully they were wrong on that one. The were wrong the next night too.