Sailing on Stap Isi

November 16 – Above New Boston, IL

We spent the night of November 15th waking up and writing down forgotten items on an increasingly lengthy list. By the morning of the 16th it was obvious that we needed to make one more trip to the hardware store. So with the run to two different hardware stores, it was after 8 before we were ready to shove off.

This was in many ways the hardest part of the trip. It would be a year or more before we would see our kids or family again. With a lot of tears and a last prayer together we waved goodbye, put the boat in gear and pulled away from the dock.

It was a beautiful morning, cool and clear with only a hint of wind. We made good progress down river to the first test – getting through our first lock and dam. There were no barges waiting so the lockmaster told us to pull right in. It went a lot easier than we had envisioned and in a few minutes we were on our way. A couple of friends had come to the locks to take some pictures and say goodbye. It was nice to see familiar faces.

The rest of the day passed uneventfully. After 47 miles and one more lock, we pulled out of the channel and dropped the anchor. The anchor set and the boat swung lazily with the current. We looked forward to a good nights sleep and an early start the next morning.

November 17 – Burlington, IA

An early start was not to be. We woke to warm temperatures (good) and dense fog (bad). Not wanting to come out on the short end of an encounter with a barge, we waited. Finally at 10:15 the fog had cleared enough to see our way south. We raised anchor and started off.

The weather was great, fog notwithstanding, and the sunshine and warm temperatures made for a pleasant day. After a mere 35 miles we arrived at Burlington, IA and since it was already 3:30 we decided to tie up at a dock owned by a river-side restaurant. We didn’t know it at the time but this was to be a great decision.

After getting the boat squared away, we got cleaned up and put on our go-out-to-dinner clothes and went out for a meal. After just two days on the water it seemed like everything was in motion. Getting used to being on land is as weird as getting used to being on a boat.

With dinner complete we retired to the boat for a good nights sleep and another early start.

November 18 – Burlington, IA

Well, so much for an early start. Or any start for that matter. We were completely socked in by fog and it looked like it would be hours before we would be able to start. So we spent the day working on various boat projects. Our first couple days out revealed several items needing repair or attention. So we worked on our things to do list while waiting for the fog to clear.

Late that morning, while still fogged in, a father and son came down to the dock and shouted a greeting in Melanesian Pidgin, the trade language of Papua New Guinea. They had seen the name of the boat (Stap Isi is Melanesian Pidgin for “relax, take it easy,”) and had come down to see why this Illinois boat would have a Pidgin name. It turns out that they are furloughing missionaries from PNG just like us. They had had a speaking engagement the night before in Burlington and were taking a walk along the river before heading off to their next engagement.

What a blessing it was to visit with fellow PNGers. God is so good to arrange little surprises and blessings like that. After a a nice chat they were off and we returned to our boat work.

Long story short, we got a lot done while waiting for a break in the fog that never came. So that afternoon we dug out our dinner clothes, and went back to the restaurant for a burger, praying that maybe the next day we would be able to start again.

November 19 – Above La Grange, MO

No fog! So at 7AM we were off from Burlington for what would be a 65 mile day. After some early morning rain, the weather cleared a bit and it got more comfortable. We are finding that we can deal with the cold as long as the sun shines a bit. It is the combination of cold, fog, drizzle, rain, and clouds that makes the trip miserable.

Mid morning Kyle checked the engine compartment and found water leaking in. He traced the leak to a check valve that he had installed in an antisiphon line. Not having another valve, Kyle cut the end off Kathy’s broom stick and used that to seal off the end of the line.

That was the only excitement of the day and at 4:15 we dropped anchor for another night on the river.

November 20 – Rockport, IL

An early start added to the length of a truly miserable day. It was cold, biting, and overcast and in short order we were chilled to the bone. To make matters worse, we had long waits at both locks we reached. Drifting in circles while waiting almost two hours for a barge to lock through wouldn’t be fun under the best of circumstances. Add a cold drizzle and you have a true recipe for misery.

We thought it was humorous that the barges and locks referred to us as the southbound pleasure craft. The only pleasure craft we could see were those barges with the nice dry, heated cabins.

The guidebook of Mississippi river facilities listed a marina at Rockport IL that was open year round. They said that they had showers, a hot tub, and restaurant. The idea of tying up to a nice dock and hooking our space heater to the shore power, then having a hot shower and meal kept us pushing on. We tried calling the marina on the cell phone but could not get an answer. That should have been our first hint that maybe things were not as advertised.

Arriving at the marina we tied off to the transient dock and went to the office. Everything was locked up tight. So much for the hot shower. But the electrical outlets were still live so at least we were able to run the space heater. A warm night’s sleep did wonders for our spirits.

November 21 – Dardenne Slough, MO

This was the best day yet. The sun shone most of the day, we got through both sets of locks with almost no wait, and by 3:30 we had made 62 miles. By that time we were at the South end of Dardenne Slough. This was the home of several marinas which were supposed to be open year round. We called them on the cell phone and when we couldn’t get an answer decided to anchor out.

So we found a nice spot out of the channel, dropped the anchor, and got things squared away. Kathy made a great meal of chicken and rice and we relaxed for the evening. For awhile.

About 9 PM, Kathy went out to check on the anchor and found that we were now pointed the wrong way. A wind had come up and spun the boat on the anchor. The anchor rope had fouled on the keel and we were now sitting sideways to the current. I could only envision that the extra force of the current pushing on the sideways boat would dislodge the anchor and we would go careening down the river in the middle of the night.

Do I need to mention that neither of us slept well that night? We took turns throughout the night poking our heads out and checking to see if we were still stationary. By about 3 AM the wind had stopped and somehow the boat had come untangled from the anchor rope. So we got a few hours of comfortable sleep before it was time to get going again.

November 22 – Alton, IL

The first thing that we do each morning is listen to the NOAA weather forecast on the marine radio. This morning they were broadcasting a weather warning due to an approaching winter storm. Today is Monday and on Wednesday a storm is supposed to come through this area producing rain, snow, and high winds (gusts to 40 mph). The rain and snow we can deal with but the high winds are another matter. We needed to find a sheltered place to wait out the storm

At Alton Illinois there was another marina that was advertised as being open all year. And amazingly enough it was. Even though it was only 22 miles from our last anchorage, we thought we would spend the night there and wait to see how the weather developed.

So here we are. Kathy was able to do some laundry, while Kyle replenished the supplies of fresh water and diesel fuel. The weather people are still calling for a significant storm in a couple days so we are trying to decide whether to push on our wait here in the sheltered marina until Thursday. There is another marina down river 45 miles but it is not sheltered and it is oriented broadside to the predicted winds. The idea of being slammed broadside into the dock by high winds and waves is not overly attractive.

November 23 – Alton, IL

Since there was really no attractive option down river for sitting out the storm, we decided to stay put at the Alton marina until the storm passed. It seems like there are always a few things on the boat needing attention so we devoted the day to checking some things off the list.

The big project was getting the HF radio functioning so that we can do email and download government weather faxes. It took several hours but by the end of the day the ham radio was operational. Kyle tuned around the dial and found a ham operator in New Orleans calling out for a contact. Since we were headed in that direction Kyle decided to give him a call. They had a nice chat and at the end the other operator gave us some advice – when we get to Mobile Alabama, jump ship.

The weather people are still predicting a major storm for tomorrow so we are feeling much better about our decision to stay in Alton. So far it has been a beautiful day but the barometer is starting to plummet and it looks like things will change soon.

November 24 – Alton, IL

We awoke in the wee hours of Wednesday morning to the sound of something clattering across the deck. The wind had come up and apparently we had missed lashing something down up there. Kyle opened the hatch and found the radar reflector perched precariously on the side, waiting for the next big gust to carry it over board. He grabbed it and went below to listen to the wind and rain. As much as we had hated to lose two days of travel, now that the storm had arrived we were thrilled not to be out on the river. Throughout the rest of the night the winds increased so that by morning even though the boat was tied to the dock in a sheltered anchorage it was rocking and lurching and healing.

Snow! When we poked our heads out this morning we found the boat covered in a layer of wet snow. Personally I think that there is something terribly unnatural about snow on a sailboat. Sailboats are for warm summer breezes and white sand beaches. Welcome to Mississippi crusing in November.

At first light we went out and added a couple more dock lines to secure the boat to the dock. Then after making sure again that everything was lashed down well we went below for breakfast and to tackle some more projects. The main project for the day was to rewire the mast lights. We have an anchor light, a tricolor light and a steaming light on the mast. All of these are used in different situations and are required by the Coast Guard. We had been able to get the anchor light going before we left but were waiting for a down day to get the others wired. We definitely were not going anywhere so this was the day.

After a couple of hours of fishing wires through the bilge and connecting everything up we had all the lights working. Another major project completed. This afternoon we are working on correspondence and hopefully going to the grocery store for some provisions. Tomorrow morning, Thanksgiving, we are hoping to be on our way once again. The weather people are predicting several days of good weather and we are looking forward to making some good progress towards the gulf.

November 25 – Kimmswick, MO

It was a brisk and clear morning as we readied Stap Isi to resume the trip down river. The temperature had fallen to 27F in the night and the wet snow that had fallen the day before was now a coat of ice over every surface of the boat. We had to move carefully to avoid slipping and falling on the icy deck.

Kyle called ahead on the marine radio to check the status of Lock 26, just a mile down river. They said that they would be ready to lock us through in about half an hour so at 8AM we cast off the dock lines and started our way south again. It was good to be moving again after almost three days of waiting for the storm to pass.

All went well until we got into the lock and reduced speed. Suddenly an engine alarm sounded and the low oil pressure light went on. Increasing the engine rpm’s caused the alarm to stop but every time we reduced the engine speed, the low oil pressure alarm sounded. The lock doors were closing behind us and this was not a good time to be doing engine analysis. So we waited until we were through the lock and shut the engine down to check the oil status.

We check the fluid levels each day so unless something catastrophic had happened in the few minutes we were under way, we expected to find the oil at the prescribed level. It was. So why was the low pressure indicator going off? Kyle called Kathy’s brother on the cell phone to get some advice. Bill is a good mechanic and was able to offer some suggestions. Since it seemed like the oil pressure was staying high enough at the normal operating rpm’s we motored on as usual. There was another marina about 40 miles down the river and that would give us a good place to work on the problem.

Shortly after leaving Alton, we arrived at St. Louis. This was a double treat. Not only did we have a spectacular view of the arch, but it was there that we passed through our last lock on the Mississippi. Shortly thereafter we passed the mouth of the Missouri River. With the additional water from the Missouri, the river took on an entirely new feel. The current increased and there was a much greater amount of barge traffic. Freed from the necessity to fit through the locks, some of the barges were immense.

Finally at about 1:30 PM we arrived at the marina and tied up. Kyle immediately started to work on the motor and after changing the oil and filter, he discovered a loose connection on the wires feeding the control panel. Tightening that connection seemed to solve the problem with the oil alarm.

It is Thanksgiving and we were happy to find that a restaurant a short distance up river from the marina was offering Thanksgiving dinner. So we took boat baths and walked up to the restaurant. After the cold and stress of the day, it was nice to sit in a warm place and enjoy turkey and all the trimmings. It is awesome to experience the big and little blessings that the Lord has been sending our way throughout this trip.

November 26 – Mouth of Kaskaskia River, IL

Our location right on the river provided plenty of rocking and rolling as the barges went by in the night. But we got a good night’s sleep nevertheless and were ready to go early. Since we had used the last of our oil yesterday, we needed to get some additional quarts to have on hand. So first thing Kyle borrowed the marina car and drove in to town to the auto parts store.

As soon as he returned we shoved off and headed down river. With the rains upriver earlier in the week, the river was running high and there was a lot of debris floating along. Actually with the strong current and the floating limbs and trees, it was a lot like navigating the Ramu river in PNG. With the strong current we made great progress, at times hitting 10 mph. That may not sound like much but it is ripping for a boat like this.

At 1:00 PM we arrived at the mouth of the Kaskasia River. There was a lock just up the Kaskasia and we had been told that the lockmaster allowed small craft to tie up to the outer wall of the lock. That sounded like a lot better option than trying to find a sheltered anchorage on the Mississippi. So we pulled into the Kaskasia and called the lockmaster on the marine radio. He gave us docking instructions and in short order we were tied to the lock wall.

It was still early so we watched the Arkansas-LSU game on the one channel we could receive. Kathy made another great dinner and we settled in for the evening. It is supposed to be raining almost all day tomorrow. So we will take a look at the conditions in the morning before deciding whether or not to move. Rain is OK as long as it is not accompanied by high winds.

November 27 – Mouth of Kaskaskia River, IL

Early in the night the wind came up and the rain started. Twice we had to get up, get dressed and move logs away that the wind had blown up against the boat. We also added another couple of dock lines to make sure that we were securely fastened to the wall.

By dawn the wind had not stopped and it was obvious that we were going to lose another day of travel. There was no power to run the space heater so we huddled under sleeping bags and watched videos. Kyle was able to finally get the HF email up and running so the day was not a total loss. Still it was discouraging to have only made a little over 100 miles of progress in six days due to days lost to weather.

The cold is wearing on us daily. We keep thinking that just a few more days south and we will start seeing some warming but it seems like every day is the same. We will try to make the mouth of the Ohio River on Monday then about two more days should see us into the Tennessee River. From there it is a straight shot to the gulf. We are praying that Lord would give us a week or so of uninterrupted travel and that He would help us deal with the cold.

November 28 – Cape Girardeau, MO

When we woke on Sunday morning it was clear and calm. At 7:00 AM we pulled away from the Kaskasia lock wall for what would be our best day yet. The sun shone off and on most of the day, the temps were in the 40s and it was a fine day on the river. By the end of the day we had covered 68 miles and were just south of Cape Girardeau, Missouri. There we anchored off the river in a small diversion channel. There was no current and almost no wind so the boat just drifted around lazily all night while we got a good night’s sleep. We did not realize at the time that this would be just about the last sleep we would get for the next 60 hours.

November 29 – Cairo, IL

Another weather front was moving in and on Monday morning we woke to light rain. This was going to be our last day on the Mississippi and we hoped to anchor for the night just above the mouth of the Ohio River. The rain continued through the day. Even with good rain gear everything slowly became damp. Because of the cold temperatures, there was a lot of condensation in the boat and everything not in plastic was wet.

We feel like we are devolving into troglodites. Get up, put on the same damp clothes, too cold to bathe, take turns at the helm, drinking coffee or cocoa for warmth. Slug down some dinner and collapse into bed. Get up – repeat. I can’t remember feeling really warm.

At 1 PM we arrived at Cairo Illinois and anchored just below the tip of an island on the Mississippi. The owner of the last marina we had stopped at had suggested that this was a good place for an anchorage and for the first few hours we agreed. Because of the high water there were a lot of logs and debris drifting down the river and we could see some fairly large stuff floating by on either side of us. But it appeared that being behind the island was protecting us from the logs.

Kathy made dinner and by 7 we were in bed. After just a couple of hours we were jolted from bed by the sound of something slamming into the boat and scraping down the side. Kyle got dressed quickly and went out to check things out. We were surrounded by large dark shapes of logs and even full trees floating by. Our biggest concern was that one of the larger trees would hit us full on and dislodge the anchor.

Going below, Kyle climbed back into bed. Moments later we were hit again. Slam, scape, slam, scrape. Had this happened while it was light we could have looked for a different anchorage. But in the dark there was no way we could move. We still don’t know why after several hours of being out of the debris we were suddenly directly in the path. But all night we had to go topside to check for damage. At one point a 40 foot tree snagged on our anchor line and slammed into the side of the boat. It remainded there pounding on the side until Kyle was able to dislodge it by poking at it with Kathy’s broom. Within minutes another log was hung on the rope. Again Kyle was able to dislodge it with the broom.

The only thing that we were thankful for was that at least it wasn’t raining. The forecasters had predicted rain all night but thankfully they were wrong on that one. The were wrong the next night too.