Sailing on Stap Isi

December 30 – Grand Harbor Marina, MS

The past couple of days of motoring, we had uncovered a few small mechanical problems that needed attention. There is a small oil leak on the engine, the bilge pump is acting up, the kitchen faucet is leaking, and so on. By the time we compiled a complete list, we decided that this would be a good time to take a maintenance day. That way once we get moving tomorrow, we can proceed towards the Gulf while keeping the down days to a minimum.

This marina has internet access so in addition to the maintenance we are taking the opportunity to get our monthly update out and answer some emails. Tomorrow we will be leaving first thing to start our trip down the Tombigbee.

December 31 – Bay Springs Marina, TN

Construction began on the Tenn-Tom waterway in 1971 and was completed 15 years later in 1986. The 217 miles of the waterway link the Tennessee and Tombigbee Rivers, providing a water link between the mid-southern states and the Gulf. For pleasure boaters, this route is much preferred over the lower Mississippi. South of Cairo the Mississippi is hazardous and is almost devoid of marinas and service facilities for small boats. The Tenn-Tom on the other hand, has almost no current and is dotted with marinas and facilities. One can get all the way from the Tennessee River to the Gulf with only having to anchor out 2-3 times.

Early on New Years Eve, we pulled out of Grand Harbor Marina for our first foray onto the Tenn-Tom. It was a warm and sunny morning and we enjoyed the scenery along the way. The route started through a reservoir but after a few miles we entered what is known as the Divide Cut. This 24 mile section is actually a canal that joins the Tennessee and Tombigbee River valleys. High levies lined each side and other than some water birds and a pack of turkeys, there was not a lot to see.

Our plans were to spend the night at the Bay Springs Marina, just up river from the first of the 12 locks on the Tenn-Tom. We had expected to encounter a lot of barge traffic on the river but did not see a single other boat this entire first day. At 2 PM we pulled into the marina to discover that it was closed for New Years. That was not a problem since we did not need power, fuel, or water – just a place to tie up for the night. Finding an open spot, we docked Stap Isi and settled in.

January 1 – Smithville, TN

New Years. At midnight someone in the vicinity of the marina started discharging firearms. That was enough to wake us and let us know that we were into a new year. Then it was back to sleep for a few hours.

Today we would be encountering our first lock on the Tenn-Tom. This was the thing about which we were most apprehensive. In our previous experience with locks on the Mississippi and Tennessee Rivers it was not unusual to take an hour or more locking through. There were 4 locks in the first 20 miles after Bay Springs and we had visions of spending most of the day waiting at locks and making almost no distance. When we got to the first lock and had to wait an hour and a half for a barge, our fears seemed to be coming true. Let’s see, 1.5 hours times 4 locks means potentially 6 hours lost. That was not going to be a fun way to spend a day.

Having made it through the first lock, we motored down river the 5 miles to the second. To our surprise, the lock master was just opening the gates for us when we arrived. We scooted in, tied up, and in less than 20 minutes were on our way. That was to be the pattern for the next couple of days. The lock master of the first lock of the day would contact the next locks and let them know we were coming and about how long it would take for us to get there. When we arrived they were ready and waiting to open the gates. Generally in 20 minutes or less we were through. The piece that we were most apprehensive about ended up being the least painless.

Because of having to deal with all the locks, we had gotten a very early start. But because everything went so well, at 2:00 PM we had already arrived at the Smithville Marina, our destination for the day. It was a nice surprise to find that they had cable TV hookups. So we borrowed a cable, hooked up our little 9 inch TV and watched a few of the New Years Bowl games.

January 2 – Columbus, TN

We had showers in the night and the weather forecast was for more throughout the day. Rain was not going to be too much of a problem, though, especially when the temps were supposed to be in the 70s. We prefer to get a very early start each day so that there is plenty of time to deal with any unforeseen problems. So at 6:45 AM we started the engine, cast off, and headed a half mile down river to the first lock of the day. There were three locks on the schedule for today and the pattern of yesterday was repeated. After the first lock, the second and third were ready and waiting for us.

By noon the clouds had burned away and it was sunny and warm. For the past six weeks I had been promising Kathy that just a little further south it would be warm. It looked like she could finally stop accusing me of lying to her.

Again we had the river almost to ourselves. We passed one barge and perhaps two other pleasure boats the whole day. Mile after mile it was just us, the boat, and the buzzards.

We had gotten used to seeing gulls, eagles, hawks, and herons. Today however was the day of the buzzards. For some reason there were buzzards everywhere along the river. We passed one power line and there on the tower were about 30 of them watching us slowly move past. That was sort of unnerving – made us wonder if they knew something that we didn’t. Then later there were actually three of them circling the mast of the boat as we motored along. Now we may not be the most experienced of sailors, but we found their suggestion a bit insulting.

Soon however, we left the buzzards behind, thankfully unfed, and arrived at Columbus Marina. This marina had a car we could borrow so we got cleaned up and went in to Columbus for dinner. One thing we have discovered on this trip is that one is never far from a Wal Mart. A quick stop on our way to the restaurant and we were able to get enough groceries and supplies for the next several days.

January 3 – Marina Cove (Near Carrollton, AL)

When planning our route for the day, we take two things into consideration – the speed of the boat and the location of anchorages and marinas. Since we started down the Tenn-Tom, we have been making about 6.3 knots (7 mph) so conceivably Stap Isi could make almost 80 miles between dawn and dusk. But 80 miles would do us no good if it left us far from a safe place to spend the night.

The farther along the Tenn-Tom we have gone, the less abundant the anchorages and marinas have become. When we left Columbus this morning we had two options. Marina Cove was located one lock and 28 miles south. After that there was an anchorage 37 miles and one more lock farther downriver. Since 65 miles of river travel and two locks seemed a bit optimistic we elected to take a short day and aim for Marina Cove.

The bird life is getting a bit more varied as we move south. Besides the ubiquitous gulls and buzzards, we also saw our first egret and a couple flocks of what we think were pelicans. Ducks of every size and color abound along with geese. Yesterday we say something swimming in the water that appeared to be a very large rat or a small beaver. For some reason we have yet to see a deer or other large mammal.

Just another day in paradise. It was in the 70s today, with a light southerly breeze. We were just about the only people on the water. About 10 AM we passed a couple of guys in a fishing boat and a bit later a large cruiser passed us heading North. (North???? Obviously lost.) No barges passed us until after we had tied up for the day. At 12:30 PM Marina Cove came into view and in short order we were tied up and (I hate to say this because of our more Northerly readers) resting on deck in the sunshine. We did have the pleasure of entering Alabama today – three times. As the course of the river wound back and forth across the border we spend about 30 minutes alternately in Mississippi and Alabama.

Tomorrow we will get an early start and head for the anchorage 38 miles downriver. Then one more day of travel will bring us to Demopolis, Alabama. A major marina is located there and we plan to take a couple days to get ready for our last 200 mile push to the Gulf. If all goes well, about one more week will see us in Mobile.

January 4 – Stuck in the Mud, Somewhere on the Tenn-Tom

In yesterday’s entry we talked about trip scheduling on the Tenn-Tom and how it was necessary to plan well so that the end of each day found us at an anchorage or marina. When we left the Marina Cove this morning it was with the knowledge that there was one anchorage between Marina Cove and the next marina at Demopolis, 90 miles away. So we set out to make the 36 miles to that anchorage with the plan that we would do the final 54 miles to Demopolis on Wednesday.

After a short delay to let the fog burn off, we were on our way at 8 AM. There was a lock about 1/2 mile below the marina so we radioed ahead and by the time we got there the gates were open and we had the green light to go in. Another 30 minutes and we were through the lock and heading South.

It was a picture perfect day, much like the last several. We watched birds, checked out the homes along the river, and other than a couple of fishing boats had the river to ourselves. About noon we saw our first spanish moss hanging on some trees on a bluff. It is encouraging to find evidence that we are indeed making progress.

At about 1:45 PM we arrived at the anchorage, a small bay off the river with a public boat dock. The guide book said that it was 6 feet deep at the entrance and 10 feet in the middle of the bay. I had asked the owner of the last marina if those figures were correct. He assured us that we would have no problem getting in with Stap Isi’s 5 foot draft.

Still we took it nice and easy as we moved into the entrance to the bay. Kathy read the depth numbers off as I steered. The depth started at 12 feet at the entrance but quickly dropped to 5, then 4.5, 4.3, 4.2 ….. stuck. We had been going slowly enough that it was no problem to put it in reverse and back out again. We tried again on the down river side of the entrance. Same thing – stuck again. Back out and try the upriver side. Stuck again. It seemed that the depth was four feet or less, not six, across the entire entrance.

So now what to do? It was 2 PM and Demopolis was 54 miles away – 8 hours at our speed. The moon was not going to appear tonight until after midnight so night travel on the river was pretty much out. (It would have been pretty much out even with a moon.) Finally we decided that since we had planted the boat in the mud at the entrance three times and three times were able to back out easily, we might as well do it again and spend the night stuck in the mud.

So Kyle once again eased the boat into the entrance while Kathy read the depth numbers. At 4.5 feet we felt the bow nose down and saw that we were not moving. Just to make sure that all was set, we dropped the anchor. It barely hit the water and it was down.

There is almost no wind today so we don’t have to worry about being blown off our parking spot. Our only concern is that a passing barge might send enough wake our way to move us further into the bay and really get us stuck. There is nothing to do but wait until morning and see what happens.

January 5&6 – Demopolis, AL

During the night we had two barges go by but they did not raise much of a wake so the boat remained firmly stuck in the mud. At 6 AM we were up and waiting for enough light to try to ease the boat back out into the river. The wind had come up a bit towards morning and blown the stern of the boat over to one side a bit. That meant that we were not sitting nicely in the furrow we had dug yesterday.

Finally at 6:30 it was light enough to see if we could unstick ourselves. Kyle started the engine, put it in reverse and gave it half throttle. We sighted along the trees on the bank to see if the boat was moving. Nope. Kyle eased off the throttle and then gave it a bit more power. Still nothing. He put it in forward to try rocking the boat a bit like when a car is stuck in the snow. Still no movement. The boat was stuck fast in the mud. There are several ways of ungrounding a sailboat but none of them are as quick and painless as just backing out. And since we had a full day to get to Demopolis we really wanted to be under way as quickly as possible. Kyle gave some forward thrust and then put it in reverse again. This time he poured the coals to it. Finally Stap Isi began to move backwards. We were ungrounded and free to start motoring down the river again.

There is not much to tell about the trip down. It was much like the previous four days. After the clouds burned off the sun came out and by mid-afternoon it was in the mid 70s again. The only excitement for the day came when we met a barge coming up river at the same time we were trying to pass a barge going down river. That made for one too many boats in a narrow river. Everyone was able to communicate via marine radio so we all knew what everyone else was doing. That allowed us to ease by both barges without getting tangled up with either. Tangling with a barge is enough to take the shine off of one’s day.

At 2 PM we pulled into the marina at Demopolis. There is some rain and colder temps moving into the area in the next couple of days so it looks like we will stay here until Friday or Saturday. That will allow Kathy to get the laundry done and Kyle will work on some of the ever-present boat jobs. There are only four days left of traveling to get to Mobile so we are anxious to be moving as soon as possible.

January 7 – On the Tombigbee Waterway

Demopolis is a major stopping off point for boats heading for Mobile so there are always a few boats ready to make the last jump to the Gulf. Three were planning to leave today and we were going to at least start out together first thing in the morning. The departure became a scramble when the lock two miles down river told us at 6 AM that we had to be there in 20 minutes or he would have to lock through a barge first. In a matter of minutes we all had our engines started and were heading south at top speed. We all made it to the lock before the barge arrived. Soon we were through and on our way.

When we left Demopolis, we left the last actual marina on the Tenn-Tom until Mobile. So tonight we would be anchoring out on the river. The “anchorage” was actually just a wide spot in the river where we were able to pull out of the way of barges. In order to keep from swinging into the channel we had to set anchors from the bow and stern. About an hour after we had anchored, another couple we had met in Demopolis arrived in their sailboat and anchored behind us. It was nice to have some people around.

The big event for the day was that we passed the 1000 mile mark for this trip. That leaves only slightly less than 200 miles to go until Mobile.

January 8 – Bobbie’s Fish Camp, AL

Some storms blew through in the night but nothing too serious. About 50 miles north of us they had 60 mph winds and severe thunderstorms. We got a bit of rain and some wind but the anchors held nicely and we made it through the night without problems.

Today our goal is Bobbie’s Fish Camp. This is a catfish restaurant that has a fuel dock and a place to tie up for the night. Everyone we have talked to says that they serve some of the best catfish on the planet. Kathy is not much of a fish eater but even she is going to try it.

Mile after mile today was just trees and water and very little sign of humanity. We have tried to be good and enjoy the glories of nature all around us. Unfortunately at this time of year nature’s glory is more than a little muted. It is becoming a struggle to appreciate it. After a few hundred miles of naked trees, it all begins to look like standing firewood.

So we find ourselves looking intently, not at the birds and trees, but for signs of people. Kathy has taken to scanning the bank with our binoculars, looking for garbage. “Oh, look hon, a lawn chair,” she exclaimed at one point. And sure enough, there was a lawn chair that the last flood had deposited in a tree. When Kyle called Kathy up on deck to see an outhouse, he knew that it was time to come out of the woods. Just two more days and we will be in Mobile, surrounded by concrete and glass and lights and noise. Ahhh, civilization.

But for now it is time to refuel the boat and get up the hill for some catfish.

January 9 – Bates Lake, AL

Today was going to be a long day, starting with our last lock and dam on the Tombigbee. Two other boats tied up with us at Bobbie’s Fish Camp and over dinner we had decided to leave together before dawn. One of the two other boats, Morning Star, had radar so he would lead and Stap Isi and Aurora would follow.

At 5:30 AM Morning Star radioed ahead to the lock and was told that it was very foggy there but we could come on down. There was almost no fog at Bobbie’s so we all started our engines and proceeded towards the lock.

As soon as we got through the lock we ran into pea-soup fog. We could hear the barges heading up river discussing the conditions and it sounded like almost all of them had pulled over to the side of the river to wait until the fog cleared. It would have been impossible for us to have proceeded by ourselves but with Morning Star leading the way we were able to safely make our way down river. Finally by 9 AM or so the fog began to lift.

We were hoping to make almost 65 miles to a place on the river called Bates Lake. The guidebooks said that this was a nice anchorage and since it was only 54 miles from Mobile, we would potentially be able to make it all the way to Mobile the next day. Morning Star had gone on ahead once the fog cleared. As we approached Bates Lake, they radioed to us to give us directions on where the deeper water was and how to get into the anchorage. We got in with almost 2 feet of water to spare under the keel and were soon swinging lazily at anchor. If all went well this was going to be the last night on the river. We were excited at the prospect of finally bringing this part of the trip to a close.

January 10 – Mobile, AL

It was 54 miles to the end of the Tombigbee waterway but there was an additional 12 miles or so to the marina where we hoped to stay. That was going to be another long day so we planned to get an early start again. Unfortunately, we awoke again to thick fog in the morning. Today rather than charge out into the fog, all three boats waited for it to burn off. Kyle kept doing speed and distance calculations to try to figure out the latest that we could leave and still make it to Mobile. He figured that if we got underway by 10 AM we would arrive at the marina at twilight.

Finally at 9:30 AM the fog had lifted enough for us to leave and at 9:45 we were under way. There was a nice current at this point and for the first few hours we made almost 9 mph. At that speed we would make it to the marina with a few minutes to spare.

In the lower reaches of the Tombigbee, the land along the shore started to change from forests to marshes. We saw lots of cypress trees, pelicans, and other signs that we were approaching the ocean. The farther we went the wider the river became and we had to be careful to stay in the channel and avoid the shallows. At one point our hearts stopped as we felt Stap Isi brush the bottom, but our momentum carried us through and we became even a bit more careful. Then we heard Morning Star radio us from up ahead.

They had arrived at the railroad swing bridge just north of Mobile and found that it was broken and unable to swing. There was a railroad crew working on it but they were not sure how long it would be to fix it. When we finally came around the bend and saw the bridge, there were two boats above and one barge below waiting to get through. So we joined the queue and drifted in lazy circles while the maintenance people worked on the bridge.

After a 45 minute wait, the bridge started to swing open and we were on our way again. This had completely blown any chance we had of getting to the marina before dark, but in checking the charts we saw that there were lighted buoys all along the Mobile ship channel and from the channel in to Dog River where the marina was located. Each lighted buoy has a distinctive pattern of flashing lights. It is not difficult to navigate as long as you can see the next flashing buoy. So we decided to just go ahead and proceed to Mobile rather than anchoring out one more night.

Entering Mobile was awe inspiring. Just a few miles up the river we had been the only boat around. It was peaceful and quiet and we were surrounded by coastal marshes. Now we were surrounded by huge ocean-going freighters, barges, and smaller boats of every description. Stap Isi was just about the smallest boat on the water and we felt a bit intimidated by the surroundings. This was our re-introduction to civilization.

As we left Mobile and headed south into Mobile Bay, we could see the red and green flashing buoys marking the ship channel. Coming into a new harbor in the dark is not the best greatest idea in the world, but with the navigational aids we were confident of finding the marina. Plotting our course on the chart we followed the channel to where we should find the buoys marking the secondary channel into Dog River. And there they were. The chart showed flashing buoys all along this secondary channel and we soon saw the first green one about a mile ahead. All we had to do was keep to the right of that and when we got there we should see a red one a mile further on.

Except we didn’t. Arriving at the green flashing buoy we scanned ahead but couldn’t see a red one. Obviously it was not working. But we knew it was a mile ahead on a course of 305 degrees so with Kathy watching the compass I steered towards where we should find the buoy. After going a mile we got out our million candle power spotlight and looked around for the buoy. Nothing. The buoys all have reflective paint on them and if they were anywhere close we should have seen them.

So we turned around and proceeded back to the green flashing buoy. We set our 305 degree course again and started back to see if we could find the next buoys. Kyle told Kathy that since the Bay was only 7 feet deep here, if we missed them again, we would just pull off to one side, drop the anchor, and wait until morning to go in. But this time after going a mile, Kathy scanned the area with the spotlight and picked up the reflection of the red buoy. We were back in business again.

About this time, we heard Morning Star calling us on the marine radio. They were a bit concerned when we had not arrived and were trying to find out where we might be. They were very familiar with the channel into Dog River and helped us find our way the last mile or so in to the marina.

At 7 PM we finally arrived at Dog River Marina and tied up to the fuel dock there. We can’t tell you how great it felt to be done with the river portion of our trip. Since leaving Moline, Illinois on November 16th we had covered almost exactly 1200 miles. Due to weather and flooding, it had taken us almost twice as long to complete this leg as we had anticipated. Through it all, though, the Lord has blessed the trip and has given us grace to continue. Even in spite of the cold, rain, snow, etc. it was a good trip.