Sailing on Stap Isi

June 16 – Departure from Daniel’s Bay

When we had first arrived in Nuku Hiva our intention had been to spend at the most 7-10 days before continuing west. A strong high pressure system to the south, however, produced significantly stronger than normal trade winds and that kept us at anchor much longer than we wanted. But finally, almost three weeks after our arrival the forecast was calling for 15-20 knot winds and gradually settling conditions through the next five days. It was time to go.

There is something a bit unnatural about leaving a nice quiet anchorage and heading out onto the open seas. Sort of like getting out of bed in Illinois in January. As we raised anchor and motored towards the entrance to the bay, part of us wanted to return and rest just a few more days. But it was time to go.

As predicted conditions had settled down some. At least we were able to get out of the bay. As we turned west, however, it was clear that the prediction of 15-20 knot winds was a bit optimistic. The wind gauge remained solidly at 20 knots and with those winds the seas were still in the 10-12 foot range. It was going to be a rough day.

We always like to start a passage with a few nice easy days. It allows us to get our sea legs back and avoid sea sickness. And just getting used to the motion of the boat again always takes a couple of days. Starting out with conditions like we had today makes for a tough day. We got the sails up and trimmed and basically just hunkered down and waited for the winds to moderate.

Several other boats had left at the same time and for most of the morning we could see sails in the distance. But either because they were faster or they were heading to a different destination, by the afternoon we were once again all alone. That night, though, we heard a voice on the VHF radio and looking out we saw a large cruise ship in the distance. They were calling a sailboat that they had on radar. We determined from the coordinates that it was another boat to the south of us. We heard the cruise ship tell the other sailboat that they had seen a large number of sailboats in the area. It was nice to know we had company out there, even if we couldn’t see them.

June 17 – Conditions Began to Settle

By Saturday morning the winds had decreased to about 15 knots from the southeast. That gave us a perfect beam reach and with those winds from that direction we made a bit over 6 knots most of the day. By the end of the day on Saturday we had run off almost 140 miles – a great day.

We still had not made up our mind exactly where we were headed. Our final destination in French Polynesia was going to be Raiatea but our course would take us very close to some of the islands in the Tuamotus. The Tuamotus are made up of about 40 atolls running northwest to southeast between the Marquesas and Tahiti. Because they are low and hard to see, they used to be called the Dangerous Archipelago. Many ships and boats have come to grief in the Tuamotus over the years. With the advent of GPS navigation, however, a landfall in the Tuamotus is not quite as hazardous as it used to be and we were considering a stop there if the weather turned bad again. So we set a course half way between Raiatea and Mahini and figured that in about three days we could make a final decision on which island to aim for.

In the mean time we were just enjoying the perfect sailing conditions and the good progress we were making. We had started feeling better, getting some sleep, and getting used to the motion of the boat again. It was going to be a good passage.

June 18 – Moderating Wind and a Huge Pod of Dolphins

By Sunday morning the winds were down to about 10 knots but Stap Isi was still moving along nicely on a beam reach at about 5.5 knots. The seas were calming and it was truly a perfect sailing day. Since it was Fathers’ Day we got out the satellite phone and Kyle called the kids and his dad. It is always amazing to us that with today’s technology we can be in the absolute middle of nowhere and be able to call home to the States.

Sunday afternoon just about dusk we saw a huge pod of dolphins heading in our direction. They were leaping out of the water in groups of 5’s and 10’s and coming straight towards the boat. It looked like a class of 6th graders running for the ice cream truck. They swarmed around the boat and took up their positions in front, weaving back and forth across the bow. Some stayed along side leaping into the air and occasionally we would see five or six surfing down the face of a wave as it went by. It was like a dolphin circus and was about the most amazing thing we have seen out here. We sat on the bow and watched until it became too dark to see. Silently the dolphins headed off, hopefully to other boats.

By Sunday evening the wind had dropped to 6-8 knots. We were still making fairly good time but it was looking like a stop in the Tuamotus might be in order. The forecast was now calling for light and variable winds for Tuesday thru Thursday before the next high pressure system got things moving again. Rather than battle twitchy winds we might do better enjoying a couple days at anchor in Mahini.

June 19 – Arrival off Manihi

Throughout the day we continued to make good progress in 8-10 knots of easterly winds. It was wonderful sailing and our only concern was trying not to get to Manihi too early. Low tide was supposed to be at 7 AM on the 20th and it is best to try to get through the pass about an hour after low tide. That is when the least water is moving out through the pass.

About 9 PM we saw probably the biggest meteor that we have ever witnessed. Kyle happened to be looking directly at that portion of the sky when there was an explosion and a flash of light. Kathy was looking the other direction but still saw the flash and turned to see a brilliant trail of light moving slowly across the sky. We kept thinking that it might burn out but it just kept moving more and more slowly, leaving a red trail behind it. Finally it disappeared into the clouds on the horizon. For at least 15 minutes afterwards, though, the trail was clearly visible in the sky. Quite a show.

We arrived off Manihi about 3 AM, dropped the sails, and drifted quietly off the pass waiting for dawn. Finally the sun began to light the eastern clouds and soon we were able to start the engine and motor towards the pass into the atoll.

June 20 – Manihi to Ahe

Atolls were originally volcanos that rose up out of the sea. After the formation of the volcanic mountain, a fringe of coral would build up around the mountain forming a barrier reef. Then slowly the peak of the volcano subsided into the ocean again leaving just the fringing reef and small islets around what used to be the volcano’s crater. Getting into an atoll can be quite a challenge. When the wind and seas are up, a lot of water goes crashing over the barrier reef into the atoll. That water flows out through any of the passes in the reef. The narrower and shallower the passes the faster the current flowing out. That is why it is best to try to enter a pass at high or low tide. That way the current produced by the tides is lowest and the only current one has to deal with is from the normal water flowing into and out of the atoll.

The main pass into Manihi is fairly wide and deep so we did not anticipate any problems getting in. We hit the pass about 8:30 AM and found a slight current flowing out. Stap Isi was easily able to make headway and we were soon into the lagoon and heading southeast. Our charts showed an anchorage off a small island on the southwest corner of the atoll about a mile from the main village. Kathy stood on the ratlines, a rope ladder we build on the shrouds, from where she was able to see any coral heads or obstructions. She was able to easily navigate us through the lagoon without hitting anything and we were soon at the anchorage.

Normally the winds blow from the east or southeast and under those conditions this would have been a great sheltered anchorage. But today the winds were blowing from the northeast and conditions were not so good. We set the anchor twice but each time the winds blew the boat towards the coral shelf off the island. And the chop formed by the winds made the anchorage very uncomfortable. As long as the anchor held we would be OK but if it dragged much at all we could find ourselves in the coral. We talked about it and decided that this was not a good place to rest. So we hoisted the anchor again and headed back out the pass.

By now the tide was flowing in and there was an ample current coming into the lagoon. But Stap Isi’s motor was up to the challenge and we were soon back in open water. But now where to go. The huge atoll of Rangiroa was a day’s sail ahead so we decided to make for that. But we would have to pass by Ahe first. Ahe was visible from Manihi and we passed along southern coast when we remembered that Graham and Lyn, some friends we had met in Panama, had mentioned stopping in Ahe. Just out of curiosity we called out for them on the VHF radio and were a bit surprised when they responded. Graham suggested that we just come into Ahe. The anchorage was wonderfully sheltered and calm and there were only a few boats there. We got the charts out and calculated that with a little help from the motor we could make the anchorage at Ahe before dark. Kyle fired up the motor, we changed our heading, and made for the pass into Ahe.

As we came around the southwestern corner of Ahe we found ourselves heading straight into the wind so we dropped the sails and ran under motor alone. As we drew near to the pass, three sailboats came shooting out on their way to Tahiti. At least they helped us identify the entrance to the pass. It was now a few hours from low tide again and we were a bit concerned about how strong the current would be against us, but not to worry. Stap Isi was able to make about two knots through the pass and we were quickly into the lagoon. From the pass it was four miles to the anchorage. The channel through the corral heads was clearly marked by navigational aids so there was no difficulty getting in. Just at dusk we dropped the hook, turned off the motor, and relaxed. Graham and Lyn invited us over for supper so we took a quick bowl bath and went over to their boat, Minarette.

• June 21 – 22 – Anchored at Ahe

The anchorage at Ahe was by far the calmest we had been in for several months. It was surrounded by a fringe of corral that kept out the chop. Kathy was thrilled to be able to cook without everything sliding around.

The first day there we put the dingy in the water and rowed to the wharf. For some reason it was a school holiday so there were kids everywhere. As we walked through town our escort of kids grew. They spoke French and Tahitian while we spoke neither. But somehow we managed to communicate. They told us their names and Kathy took pictures of them with the digital camera. They showed us the school, church, store, and other landmarks. Then we rowed back to the boat to get some more rest.

We were only planning to stay in Ahe a couple of days. It was basically just a rest stop. So on Thursday we got the boat squared away, checked out the engine, and prepared to leave on Friday. The weather forecast was for good winds on Friday but for decreasing winds on Saturday and Sunday. If all went well we could be in Raiatea on Monday before the winds died out altogether.

Our days in Taiohae Bay

Saturday was a beautiful day and we just rested. Sunday though was an interesting day of heavy rain. Well, at least for half the day. It poured and poured and then it poured some more. We had a tarp up over the cockpit area so we could catch rainwater off of it. By the time the rain ended we had collected more than 40 gallons. This topped up the water tank on board and left plenty for baths and laundry. The island was a beautiful sight after the rain and we counted 22 waterfalls cascading from the mountains around the bay. What a way to spend a day.

After a weekend of resting and sleeping, we assembled our dingy and rowed to shore, for what would be our first steps on land in over a month. After a month at sea, our legs were a bit wobbly and walking on something that did not move seemed terribly strange. But in a few minutes we were getting adjusted and struck off. Time check out the town.

Our first stop was the bank. After that long passage we were hoping to find some fresh fruit and veggies but that required French Polynesian Francs. Fortunately the nearest bank had an ATM machine that accepted our Illinois debit card. It is amazing to find oneself on a small island in the middle of the Pacific and be able to use our ATM card. Not knowing how much we might need we got the equivalent of $20 US. Big mistake.

After the bank we found a grocery store where we were shocked to find that the prices for just about everything were double the stateside prices. Pringles were $3.50, hamburger was $3.00/lb, and so on. Obviously that $20 was not going to do us much good. So it was back to the ATM for $80 more and then to the store. We couldn’t bring ourselves to buy much at those prices but we still succeeded in filling a small plastic shopping bag – $36.

French Polynesia requires that cruisers from the US post a bond when they check into the country. This bond is equal to the airfare home and is supposed to guarantee that we will actually leave. At these prices, that should not be a concern. For the two of us the bond would be about $2500 – a sum that we simply don’t have. So we decided to just hang low and not check in and hope to be on our way before anyone notices our presence. With boats coming and going and nearly 45 in the anchorage on some days, that might not be too hard.

We had just started to get comfortable with our beginning Spanish when we find ourselves in a French speaking country. Kathy took French in high school but for some reason she seems to have forgotten most of it. She still remembers how to say “little peas” which should come in handy if we save up for a few months until we can afford to buy a few little peas. Otherwise we are back to square one. But most of the officials and store owners understand a little English and a lot of sign language so we are getting by.

A good part of our time here has been spent repairing the boat and getting it ready for the next passages. On any passage a few things always break and that is certainly true of a passage like the last one. So we spent a part of each day running lines, rebolting hardware, and just doing general maintenance.

Between cleaning and working on the boat, we enjoyed strolling around on the island and visiting the shops. There is a place close to the dingy dock where we can access the internet so we finally were able to download about 6 weeks of emails. Now if we could just find time to answer them.

After about 10 days we were rested up, the boat was repaired and ready to go, and it was time to head southwest towards the Tuamotus, another part of French Polynesia. We set Wednesday as our departure date so on Tuesday we got the dingy hauled back on board and lashed down. We hoped to get an early start on Wednesday morning. That night though it rained off and on all night and by the morning it was a steady, heavy rain. Furthermore the morning forecast called for winds to be building to the 20-25 knot range. Previous experience told us that sailing in pouring rain, high winds, and heavy seas is not nearly as much fun as it sounds. So we decided to wait another day or two until conditions settled down a bit. So today, instead of sailing, we are catching up on logs, charging the batteries, and trying to do a bit of emailing.

Daniel’s Bay

It took quite some time for conditions to settle down so for some variety we decided to move west to Daniel’s Bay, an anchorage on the southwest corner of Nuku Hiva. We had seen all of Taiohae Bay that we could so a change of scenery would make the time go quicker. Before leaving, we had hoped to be able to purchase some fresh fruits and veggies but had been disappointed so far at the lack of selection. Then on Thursday we noticed that a bunch of tents had been set up and there was something going on in town. So we hopped in the dingy and went to investigate. Lo and behold, the tents had been set up for a large open air market, like a farmers market. There were many different types of bananas, pineapples, pomaloes (like a big grapefruit), corn, and a host of other veggies. We hauled a couple of huge bags of fresh produce back to the boat and with that were ready to shove off. So on Friday, June 9th, we raised the anchor and headed out of the harbor.

The wind had been blowing 20-25 knots for a week now so the seas were fully developed. As we turned west we were carried along by the wind and the 8 foot seas. Since Daniel’s Bay was only five miles away, we decided to just motor over instead of putting up the sails. Because the headlands on each side of Daniel’s Bay overlap, the entrance is nearly invisible from the sea. But we had GPS coordinates and were soon at the point where we needed to turn in. As we approached the entrance to the bay the depth got shallower and the waves got higher. The wind too picked up as it funneled through the entrance. The high seas and winds made for quite a ride and we began to wonder just how difficult it was going to be to get out again. The surf pounded on the base of the cliffs to the west as we motored in so we just prayed that the motor would not take this opportunity to quit. It seemed like an hour but it was probably just a few minutes and we were through the worst of it and into the bay.

Daniel’s Bay is a beautiful place completely surrounded by lush green mountains. The mountains on the west are especially rugged looking. A small river runs into the bay on the north side. Up that river a few miles is a waterfall that is supposed to be the third largest vertical drop in the world.

There were about a dozen boats in Daniel’s Bay so we selected a likely place and dropped the anchor. It bit on the first attempt and quickly Stap Isi was swinging lazily on the chain and bobbing quietly in the gentle swell.

As we were coming in another boat was preparing to leave the anchorage. Our concerns about being able to get out again were confirmed when, about 30 minutes after leaving, they returned saying that they could not make any headway against the wind and waves. It appeared that until the wind died down we were going to be stuck in Daniel’s Bay.

But it was not a bad place to be stuck. We had plenty of food and water and fuel for the generator so we could stay there weeks if necessary. Hopefully it would not be necessary. The enforced stay turned out to be a gift from God when Kyle was asked to edit a set of Bible study questions in the Nend language. Had we been under way it would have been hard to accomplish that but sitting in the bay gave us the perfect opportunity. So for several hours each day he worked at the computer preparing the study questions for publication.

Each morning we listened to the weather and each morning the report was the same 20-25 knots of wind and 12-15 foot seas. There were now fifteen boats in Daniel’s Bay and no one was moving. The couple on the boat next to us were completing their second circumnavigation and they declined to venture forth in those conditions. We decided if it was too bad for them, it was clearly too bad for us out there too. So we waited.

Finally the high pressure system to the south that was responsible for the higher than normal winds began to move east and the forecast called for more reasonable conditions starting on Friday. There is an old sailors’ superstition about it being unlucky to sail on Friday. Probably the sailors just wanted another weekend in port but in any case we are usually reluctant to set out on Friday. But we had waited so long for this window that we were also reluctant to waste a day of it. Several other boats, also aware of the superstition, were planning to leave on Friday so we decided to head out with them.

May 20 & 21 – Waiting for the Wind

The wind filled in a bit on Saturday and for most of the day we made about 4 knots. The weather predictions were for the regular trade winds was that they should start filling in around the first of the week and if that is true, we would have no problem making the Marquesas by next weekend.

Saturday we made almost 100 miles and had high hopes that the conditions would continue to improve. But starting Sunday morning the wind began laying down again until by mid-afternoon it was barely blowing hard enough to keep the wind vane steering operational. Throughout the day it shifted from easterly to southeasterly and back again so that we were kept busy trimming the sails and making adjustments.

We did see one interesting thing on Sunday. Two round white floats about 2 feet in diameter drifted by. They had netting on them an one of them had a vertical rod that looking like an antenna. We have no idea what they were for and resisted the temptation to go pull them out of the water and find out. Probably some kind of research thing. Later we saw two other pairs of floats like that. Still have no idea of what they were.

May 22 – Squalls and Lots of Wind

Well we finally got some wind. LOTS of wind and a bunch more besides. At 9:00 PM on Sunday night Kathy woke me to tell me that it looked like a bank of clouds were moving towards us. I quickly got dressed and came up to see what looked like a squall line approaching fairly quickly. Even though we had not encountered any serious squall activity so far on this trip yet we decided to get the main reefed down just in case. Good thing. While I was in the midst of reefing the main, the squall hit with 25-30 knot winds. For a while we were on a bit of a sleigh ride but the wind and rain quickly passed and the sky filled with stars again. For the rest of the night, however, we endured squall after squall. Most of them were pretty benign but a couple made life briefly quite interesting.

Finally this morning at 8:30 the mother of all squalls hit. We could see it coming a long way off and it looked ugly. It was not the normal grey line of clouds. This one had horizontal bands of grey along its leading edge. What little we knew about weather told us that that indicated high winds. Kyle quickly put three reefs in the main and got the pole off the jib while Kathy made sure everything was secured down below. We were soon thankful for the preparations. Conservatively we figure that we had 35-40 knot winds but it may have been more. The tops of the waves were being blown off and the wind was screeching in the rigging (or maybe that was Kyle). The winds and rain lasted about 30 minutes and then in short order two more squalls blew through with winds in the 25 knot range. By mid afternoon the ugly weather had abated and we were back to the lovely tropical blue sky and small cumulus clouds.

With the passing of the squalls, however, the wind picked up to 15-20 knots out of the east and we were soon making over 5 knots under a poled out jib and no main. If all goes well this could be our first 100 mile day in over a week. We are thankful for the Lord’s continued protection and grace through the good weather and the bad.

May 23 – Resting up from the Squalls

The wind stayed throughout yesterday afternoon and all night last night and only this afternoon has laid down a bit. We still made well over 4 knots under a poled out jib alone. The weather settled down and all around us are blue skies and fluffy white trade-wind cumulus. Both us were able to get about 6 hours of sleep last night and after the night of squalls on Sunday night we needed it. With the good night’s sleep both of us were back to feeling relatively human. The seas are fairly high, running 6-8 feet, so the ride is bumpy and rolly and we are not doing much today but reading and trying to hang on.

• May 24 – More Squalls and a Rolly day

We experienced another squally night last night but without anything big or serious -just some wind and rain about every three hours. We are really thankful for the radar. With the ambient star-light we can see that a squall is coming but really can’t know anything about its size or potential winds etc. But with the radar we can get a good view of the extent of the squall line and how much rain there is. The amount of rain seems to be a good indicator of how much winds to expect.

This morning the wind had filled in to nearly 20 knots and by mid morning the seas were developing nicely to 8-10 feet. Normally we really like driving a small boat. It is cheaper to run and easier to handle. But in high seas it does give a lively ride. Fortunately it is small enough that there is always a handhold close and we can usually wedge ourselves in somewhere so we don’t get tossed around too much. With the building seas we had a few waves join us in the cockpit today so everything was thoroughly drenched by noon. By this afternoon though the wind had laid down and we were gliding along in 6 foot seas and enjoying ourselves completely. With less than three days to go to landfall, our excitement is building and there is not a lot that could disturb us now.

May 25 – Preparing for Landfall

Last night was a beautiful night with no squalls. By morning the winds had risen to 20-22 knots and the seas were up in the 10-12 range which again made for a rolly ride. The winds have slowly laid down during the day and the seas are following suit.

It has been a LONG passage and both of us are running on autopilot at this point. We just feel too tired to do much other than read, eat, and sleep and check the GPS to see the number of miles to landfall. Still, we are both in good spirits. It has been a long passage though and we are ready for a bath, a meal out, and a good nights sleep.

May 26 – Land Ho!

Throughout the day, as we approached Ua Hika, the easternmost island of the Marquesas group, we kept scanning the horizon for some sign of land. These are high volcanic islands so they should be visible for 30 miles more. But today it was quite hazy so we were within about 20 miles when Kathy sighted the island looming in the haze on the horizon. Even with the GPS giving us our exact postion, course and speed throughout the trip, there is still something magical about arriving at precisely the point you aimed at after a long passage. Ua Hika is located about 20 miles east of Nuku Hiva, our final destination in the Marquesas. That would put us at the mouth of Taiohae Bay at about dawn if the wind holds.

We are thrilled, relieved, thankful, and excited to be this close. I suspect that it will be hard to sleep tonight – but that’s OK, we have all day tomorrow!. Since we will be arriving on Saturday we will probably just hang out on the boat until Monday and then check in. Praise God for His grace!

May 27 – Arrival in Taiohae Bay

At 8:00 AM local time we dropped the anchor in Taiohae Bay, completing the 3055 mile passage from Galapagos to Marquesas. It took us 27 days and 22.5 hours for an average of 109 miles/day at 4.5 knots.

Another series of squalls came through over night but nothing too serious and certainly nothing that would dampen the wonder of the day. We just put on our foul weather gear, checked the radar, and kept navigating along towards Nuku Hiva. This morning as we approached the entrance to the bay, three other sailboats appeared from the south. It looks like this is going to be a popular place.

Since it was Saturday when we arrived, we did not even try to get checked in. Basically all we wanted to do at this point is enjoy some long uninterrupted sleep. Taking care of official paperwork can come later.

This in an incredibly beautiful place. The bay is surrounded on 3 sides by steep high mountains covered in lush greenery. What we can see of the town from the boat looks fairly prosperous and well kept. There are 30 other boats here including a few that we knew from Panama. So it will be nice to catch up with friends and share stories. But for now it is time to get some sleep.

May 14 – Mothers’ Day

Another good day of sailing making about 5 knots in 10 knots of east wind. Today was Mothers Day so I told Kathy that I would catch her a fish for Mothers’ Day. I put out the line and within about an hour we had a strike. This was obviously a bigger fish than anything that we had tangled with before. As the reel whined with the fish taking out line, Kyle struggled to get the drag tightened down. Finally just as the line was almost gone, it broke. The fish got our best lure, the only one that had gotten any strikes or fish, and almost all our line leaving us with limited fish catching ability for the duration.

Well if we can’t fish, maybe we can charge the batteries. We have three ways to keep the batteries up. Our primary source is a wind generator but with sailing downwind it has been able to generate little or no power. Our primary backup is a small Yamaha generator which runs a battery charger. Kyle got this out and started it up and connected it to the battery charger. An hour into the charge, though, it coughed a couple times and died. Hmmm. This is not good. We can always use the third way using the alternator on the diesel engine to charge the batteries but that is not an efficient way to do it. Also running the engine without a load is not particularly good for it. So it was important to try to get the generator fixed. Kyle tore into it looking for a problem but by the end of the day had not been able to find anything wrong.

Without the generator we are going to have to really watch our power consumption. That means limiting our computer work, and keeping lights and other power draws to a minimum. Maybe tomorrow Kyle can figure out the problem.

May 15 – Generator Back on Line

While on watch in the night Kyle had an idea of what the generator problem might be so at first light he got it back out and tore it down again. It had to be a fuel issue but yesterday he could not find anything wrong with the fuel system. Today however, tracing the fuel route he found a small orifice in the carborator that appeared to be clogged. Running a pin through it cleared it out and on reassembling the generator it started right up. Actually it ran better than it had for some time. We ran it for about six hours to get the batteries topped up and while it was running made about 8 gallons of water with the watermaker.

Each day it seems like the wind has laid down a bit more and our daily mileage is dropping each day. Today we had only made 120 miles. This is still respectable but we are concerned about what the trend might mean. This afternoon the wind has really died out and we are running wing and wing (the jib poled out on one side and the main tied out on the other) and making only about 4 knots. Boats ahead of us are reporting little to no wind. One guy reported on the radio sked that they were drifting quietly on a “sea of gently undulating glass.” While that might be interesting to see, with over 1000 miles to go, it could make a long trip for us. Still one must play the cards that are dealt.

May 16 – Ecquadorian Fishing Trawler

Our daily distance was down to 109 miles today and it looks like probably more of the same lite winds for tomorrow. We are still running wing and wing at 4 knots so that would make for a 100 mile day. Still today we will pass the 2000 point from the Galapagos and a bit later this evening will pass the 1000 mile to go point. That is a real cause of celebration. The light at the end of the tunnel is barely visiable but it is definitely there.

Late this morning we were sailing along when we heard a voice over the radio hailing a sailing boat. We had not seen another boat for over two weeks so were quite surprised to look up and see a large fishing trawler. He was calling out to us. Roberto, the captain, spoke excellent English and he explained that they were based in Ecuador and were four weeks into a six week stint at sea. They had already caught 400 tons of fish and were needing 200 more before they could head for home.

Roberto asked if there was anything that we needed – fish perhaps. Since we had lost our fising line on Mothers’ Day we told him yes, a dorado would be nice if he had one. He said that they had a fresh one and that he would send a couple guys over in a dingy to deliver it. Awesome. The trawler came closer and when it was a couple hundred yards off we saw a yellow dingy speed away towards us. The two guys pulled along side and we looked and saw the bottom of the dingy was full of fish. They started off loading more fish than we could use in a month. Two huge dorado, a wahoo, and when I tried to stop them they insisted that we take a tuna. They horsed a 100 pound tuna into Stap Isi along with the other fish and with a wave they were off. About that time the trawler was along side so we waved and snapped pictures while the 26 man crew waved and snapped pictures. then they were off.

After they left we just looked at each other and at the fish filling the cockpit of the boat and just laughed. Well we wanted some fresh fish but what could we possibly do with nearly 150 pounds of it. I think there is something in the Bible about God providing abundantly – this must be an example.

Kyle got out the filleting knife and got to work. There was no finesse here, it was strictly hacking out fish steaks until our small fridge was completely full. That still left about 120 pounds of fish. There was nothing else to do as we had no way to store it so with a certain sadness we consigned the remainder to the deep. And the next few days we ate like kings.

May 17 – Just Another Day

The wind veered around to the NW last night and we are still sailing along at 4 knots. Our mileage for a day total dropped just below 100 for the first time in two weeks. Still the boats ahead of us that are still bobbing along in no wind would probably trade with us.

Ran the generator today again to keep the batteries up and make another 8 gallons of water. That reverse osmosis water maker is a God-send. We could probably have carried enough water for the shorter passages but can see no way to have kept enough on board for this one. Being able to make 15 gallons or so a week means we can do laundry, take an occasional fresh water shower, and enjoy drinking a bit more cold water than we might otherwise have been able to.

May 18 – Drifting Quietly on a Gently Undulating Sea of Glass

We had felt blessed that our wind had held as long as it had. Boats ahead of us were still drifting in almost no wind while we had been scooting along at 4 knots in 6-8 knots of wind. But during the night last night the wind slowly died down until by dawn we were making less than 2 knots in almost zero wind. By 8 AM there was no wind at all and we dropped the sails to allow the boat to drift. There was a bit of current so for most of the morning we were making 0.2 knots – a speed that would put us into the Marquesas some time in September.

Kathy took advantage of the gentle motion of the boat to bake bread and cookies. Kyle dug into the deep storage areas to find charts for the Marquesas and beyond. Part of the morning we sat looking over the side at the sea life we normally would not see. No fish, but what we thought had been bubbles were actually small jelly fish. And then there were worm type things up to 18 inches long drifting along and other unidentified small zippy critters that were not fish but probably helped sustain the fish population. It is incredible how much life the ocean contains.

Finally at 11:30 AM we saw a wind line to the north and soon we were hit by 2 knots of wind gusting to 3. The light air genoa (great big sail of about the weight of a kleenex) went up and within minutes we were skipping across the ocean at 1.5 knots. WHEEEEE! Kyle told Kathy that if he fell over, don’t try to rescue him – he would just swim ahead and be there when she arrived in Nuku Hiva.

May 19 – 49 Miles in 24 Hours

Still moving west VERY slowly in almost no wind. The sails are rigged wing and wing again but there just aren’t enough air molecules moving to push. So we took it easy today, did some laundry, and sailed slowly westward. It could be frustrating if we let it but after three weeks at sea, what is another few days. At least we have nice weather. It is beautiful blue skies and star filled nights with temps in the low 80s.

Kathy put it in perspective. If there had been a nice island right here we would have anchored and taken a day off to rest. The seas are so calm right now that we might as well be at anchor. So this is an anchor day – and if we make a few miles that is a bonus. Kathy said that as soon as the wind appears we can pretend we are off on a new short passage.

The only concern is that we only have enough fuel for about 3 more battery charges. That should take us to the end of next week but shortly thereafter we do need to be making landfall.

May 20 – The Wind Reappears.

It was a peaceful night making about 3 knots in 5-6 knots of wind. The moon is not rising till about midnight so the early hours on watch are spent star gazing. Being so far from outside light sources reveals billions of stars. We enjoy looking through the binoculars and watching for satellites and shooting stars.

We normally see phosphoresence that is produced by small creatures that emit light when they are disturbed by the passing of the boat. Looking behind the boat at night we see a long green trail of this light. Last night, though, something new occured. When Kyle was on the 10 PM to 2 AM watch he noticed large flashes of light all around the boat. Some of these were the size of saucers and some were 2-3 feet in diameter. Some were near the surface and some appeared to be quite deep. Many were far enough from the boat that they could not have been triggered by the passage of Stap Isi.

It was at first a little unnerving to see these tiny depth charges of light all around the boat. Our guess though is that they are caused by the same creatures that produce the normal phosphoresence but that something is triggering them to go off simultaneously – like a symphony of light. It would have been a beautiful thing to have seen from above as it was occurring over a large area.

This morning the wind began to build again and we were soon making over 4 knots in 10 knots of ENE wind. Still running wing and wing and hoping to see the wind veer around to the SE soon so that we can get on a tack and begin making some better progress. Downwind sailing is rolly and slow. But no one is complaining about actually having good wind again. We are just praying that it will take us all the way to the Marquesas. We could be there next weekend if the wind cooperates.

Synopsis of Week 2

This week was much like last week in terms of sailing conditions. Winds were from the NE to the SE anywhere from 6 to 17 knots. We made good progress throughout the week, racking up a total of 965 miles for an average of 137 miles a day. Our best day was Monday with a total of 165 miles made good. The lowest mileage day was Wednesday with 116 – still a respectable day.

While the sailing went well, this week was still probably the most difficult of the passage just from a psychological standpoint. We were a long way from where we started but an even longer way from our destination. It was not until Saturday that we reached the half-way point in the passage – and we were still looking at 1500 miles to go. So even though everything went well, we found it hard to remain upbeat sometimes.

But by the end of the week we had reached the half way point and are now each day tangibly closer to Nuku Hiva. High points of the week included our 165 mile day, going below 2000 miles to go, reaching the half-way point, and seeing many dolphins and one sea turtle.

A Day in the Passage

Some people have asked us what a day is like on a lengthy passage. So instead of giving a day by day log of a week that was basically sailing, we wanted to present a typical day.

We start our day at 6 AM when Kyle comes off the last watch of the night. The sun is coming up and usually there are some rain clouds around that time of day. We might have a sprinkle or two or sometimes something more substantial. Kyle enters in the 6 AM log entry and plots our position on the chart. When we are on the open sea, we usually only make one or two log entries and one plot a day. When we start getting closer to land we start making three hourly plots and if we are close to anything dangerous like a reef we make hourly plots. That helps to make sure that an unexpected current doesn’t put us on a reef or rock.

Kathy is up by then and gets started making breakfast. She rotates between toast, pancakes, omelets, fried eggs on toast, and oatmeal. It is amazing the meals she can cook up in a galley that is pitching and rolling.

Shortly after breakfast we check in on the first cruisers net of the day. These nets are held on marine SSB frequencies and they give the cruisers a chance to touch base with each other. Each boat gives their position and weather conditions and then after the net anyone can go off frequency to chat. STAP ISI checks into two different nets each day. There is a group of boats ahead of us that has a net and a group behind and we are right in the middle so we check into both.

The value of these nets was demonstrated last week when the husband on one of the boats ahead of us fell seriously ill. Through the radio the wife was able to talk to a physician about his symptoms and they were able to arrange an evacuation for him to the hospital in Tahiti. The wife is in the process of bringing the boat in by herself.

After the nets we work on any of several tasks including laundry, email, equipment repairs, or changing the sails. Depending on what the wind is doing, trimming and changing sails might occupy a good part of the day. Other times we go all day without touching the sails. Some time each morning each of us tries to get a nap to catch up on sleep that was missed during the night watches. When all the jobs are caught up we read or just watch the ocean. We don’t keep a formal watch during the day but whoever is on deck is supposed to keep a lookout for other boats and to watch the sail trim. The importance of the watch was demonstrated a couple of days ago when a couple on a boat (who apparently were not keeping a watch) were startled awake by a loud crash and found that a French boat (also apparently not keeping a watch) had run into them in the night. The French boat careened off their boat and kept right on going. It amazed everyone that two boats could run into each other in the middle of hundreds of thousands of square miles of empty ocean.

The afternoons are much like the mornings. Sails are trimmed, odd jobs are finished, baths are taken, and books are read. We also try to get in a short nap in the afternoon.

After supper (again usually a culinary miracle) we have devotions and get things squared away for the night. We have divided the night into four watches. Kyle sleeps from 6 PM to 10 PM while Kathy is on watch. Then he is on watch from 10 to 2 AM. That gives each of us a good block of four hours of sleep. Then from 2 to 4 AM Kathy is on watch and Kyle finishes up the night with the 4 to 6 AM slot.

When we first started cruising we were apprehensive about the nights but they have become our favorite time on the water. It is cooler and most nights there are a billion stars in the sky. Since we’re sailing southwest we get to watch the Southern Cross on our port and the Big Dipper on our starboard rotate on the horizon. Also we have a challenge to see which one of us sees the first satellite of the night. Early morning just before light is the best time to watch for shooting stars. Occasionally dolphins swim along with the boat and some times we have gulls or other sea birds that fly around us. But the best part is that it is a great time to pray and think and read.

We have been amazed at how quickly the days go by on passage. One would think that with limited things to do the days would drag by. Instead we find that it seems like we are just getting up and it is time to begin another night watch.